[TheForge] Fwd: Re: ALPLAZ-04

[D G Brown]

I received a reply from the person that made the comments on the ALPlaz in 
the link that Mike had posted.  Here is his reply:

Dave


>From: DGoncz@aol.com
>Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 02:57:46 EDT
>Subject: Re: ALPLAZ-04
>To: DGBrown@tds.net
>X-Mailer: 6.0 sub 10578
>
>Dear Dave,
>
>I didn't see a Newsgroups: header on your email so I am replying here.
>
>I returned the ALPLAZ unit. It worked fairly well but it took me almost a 
>month of working with it to discover that at an arc voltage of 70 VDC 
>instead of the recommended 170 VDC, the output of the torch was a smooth, 
>tight vortex instead of the usual highly turbulent jet. I am planning on 
>ordering it again and intend to experiment more with this setting. I 
>figure someone wrote a European 7 in handwritten notes, and it was 
>interpreted by a translator, not a weldor, as 17.
>
>I really enjoyed working with it but was not able to weld well. However I 
>am not a weldor. It showed the potential to make welds very quickly, 
>faster than I can work. It cuts fairly well and comes with a cutting guide 
>wheel/spacer and a compass attachment. I think I brazed with it too. The 
>smooth vortical flame at 70 volts should cut even better.
>
>Parts are not a problem as long as Harbor Freight still sells them. They 
>come as a kit of a few anodes and cathode cups, etc., in a plastic box 
>with foam inserts. Nice. When the anode (I think the axial part is the 
>anode...) burns its refractory (tungsten?) electrode down, the flame turns 
>green from copper. At this point, you can file the tip down in a drill 
>motor, drill press, or lathe, or do a proper job turning a spherical end 
>with a radius turning attachment. It helps things not stick together if 
>you apply pencil lead to copper parts.
>
>Robust, but not finessed construction. Simple operation. Drinks vodka for 
>welding and brazing, distilled water for cutting. Can apply the most 
>delicate heat to parts from a distance, well controlled all the way to 
>cutting at about 1 mm away from the work. Can solder, heat treat, etc. 
>Runs 20 minutes on a fill. Has to be cooled off to refill. For cutting, 
>you can plunge the tip in water and it will cool and suck in more working 
>fluid. For welding and brazing, you can only cool the tip in water, 
>release pressure, and cool further before refilling with volatile vodka. 
>So it refills faster when cutting. I don't notice a reducing flame in 
>welding and brazing, but then I was using Lite vodka, below recommended 
>strength.
>
>HF will take it back if you don't like it, shipping paid by them. So give 
>it a try. You'll need a 220 VAC, 10 A outlet and plug. Leads are bare to 
>accept your plug.
>
>Doug


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