[TheForge] Fwd: Re: ALPLAZ-04

Tue Apr 29 19:19:00 2003

LOL thats really funny, a Russian tool that drinks vodka, can you use any
alcohol? :)

----- Original Message -----
From: "D G Brown" <[email protected]>
To: "TheForge" <[email protected]>
Sent: 28 April, 2003 11:34 PM
Subject: [TheForge] Fwd: Re: ALPLAZ-04

> I received a reply from the person that made the comments on the ALPlaz in
> the link that Mike had posted.  Here is his reply:
>
> Dave
>
>
> >From: [email protected]
> >Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 02:57:46 EDT
> >Subject: Re: ALPLAZ-04
> >To: [email protected]
> >X-Mailer: 6.0 sub 10578
> >
> >Dear Dave,
> >
> >I didn't see a Newsgroups: header on your email so I am replying here.
> >
> >I returned the ALPLAZ unit. It worked fairly well but it took me almost a
> >month of working with it to discover that at an arc voltage of 70 VDC
> >instead of the recommended 170 VDC, the output of the torch was a smooth,
> >tight vortex instead of the usual highly turbulent jet. I am planning on
> >ordering it again and intend to experiment more with this setting. I
> >figure someone wrote a European 7 in handwritten notes, and it was
> >interpreted by a translator, not a weldor, as 17.
> >
> >I really enjoyed working with it but was not able to weld well. However I
> >am not a weldor. It showed the potential to make welds very quickly,
> >faster than I can work. It cuts fairly well and comes with a cutting
guide
> >wheel/spacer and a compass attachment. I think I brazed with it too. The
> >smooth vortical flame at 70 volts should cut even better.
> >
> >Parts are not a problem as long as Harbor Freight still sells them. They
> >come as a kit of a few anodes and cathode cups, etc., in a plastic box
> >with foam inserts. Nice. When the anode (I think the axial part is the
> >anode...) burns its refractory (tungsten?) electrode down, the flame
turns
> >green from copper. At this point, you can file the tip down in a drill
> >motor, drill press, or lathe, or do a proper job turning a spherical end
> >with a radius turning attachment. It helps things not stick together if
> >you apply pencil lead to copper parts.
> >
> >Robust, but not finessed construction. Simple operation. Drinks vodka for
> >welding and brazing, distilled water for cutting. Can apply the most
> >delicate heat to parts from a distance, well controlled all the way to
> >cutting at about 1 mm away from the work. Can solder, heat treat, etc.
> >Runs 20 minutes on a fill. Has to be cooled off to refill. For cutting,
> >you can plunge the tip in water and it will cool and suck in more working
> >fluid. For welding and brazing, you can only cool the tip in water,
> >release pressure, and cool further before refilling with volatile vodka.
> >So it refills faster when cutting. I don't notice a reducing flame in
> >welding and brazing, but then I was using Lite vodka, below recommended
> >strength.
> >
> >HF will take it back if you don't like it, shipping paid by them. So give
> >it a try. You'll need a 220 VAC, 10 A outlet and plug. Leads are bare to
> >accept your plug.
> >
> >Doug
>
>
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