[TheForge] Refacing old anvils?

Tue Apr 1 19:50:00 2003

If you use MG750    rod ,no pre-post heating req'd.
Makes it too simple.
dan tull
georgia
abba, afc, S.C. psba, obg,sofa
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck Robinson" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 7:37 PM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Refacing old anvils?


> Hey Kevin,
> Between your and Grants ideas you should get it just about right.
> I would only add that in the preheat I would use 2 tempil sticks, a 325 F
> stick to show when you are at  the welding and below the heat treating
> range, and a 375F Tempil stick to indicate your not to exceed temperature.
> I suspect since you have a hard faced anvil you
> could start to anneal it above 375F.
> When you heat the anvil with the weed burner pre heat pre heat the
thickest
> portion of the body first and move the flame around to insure even
heating.
> Immediately after laying down a weld bead, thoroughly peen it with a ball
> peen hammer, to reduce the weld bead shrinkage stresses.
> Check with Messer to se about using a softer deep penetrating rod for the
> root passes before layering the hard face rod. I
>  have had good luck using 6010 for the root passes and 7018 for the top
> coating.
> After completing welding, put it in a container and cover the anvil with
> vermiculite insulation and let it slow cool over night.
> Chuck
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "gblacksmith" <[email protected]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 11:24 AM
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Refacing old anvils?
>
>
> > Kevin:  The lack of preheat could have caused your cracking at the
welded
> > surface.  Without knowing your exact technique for doing this repair, I
> > can't be sure.
> >
> > Some claim that preheating is not necessary, others insist that it is.
If
> > you choose to preheat (I would...I typically preheat generously when
> welding
> > tool steel to low-carbon in "found art"sculpture.) you can use a weed
> > burner.  I would recommend building a firebrick "igloo" around your
anvil,
> > and inserting the wide weed burner tip from the side or bottom, like a
> raku
> > kiln.  Preheat the anvil to roughly 390F by blowing a low flame on each
> side
> > of the anvil for 50 min. to one hour.  Use a tempil stick to measure
> > temperature.
> >
> > There is a company called Messer who makes a hard-facing welding rod
> called
> > MG 710 which is used in this type of repair.  Note that final hardness
> will
> > depend on how many beads you run. Contact Messer technical assistance
for
> > advice on the procedure...they have a 1-800 number.  DON'T TRY GUESSING!
> >
> >     Also, I would recommend grinding out all of the previous weld...not
> all
> > rods are compatible.
> >
> > Remember to take you time and not rush the job.
> >
> > I hope this helps
> >
> >                                     Grant Marcoux
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Kevin" <[email protected]>
> > To: <[email protected]>
> > Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 7:23 AM
> > Subject: [TheForge] Refacing old anvils?
> >
> >
> > > I'm a relatively new member to the listserve and I wanted to ask for
> > > opinions about making repairs to an anvil face.  I picked up an old
> anvil
> > > about 8-9 years ago that has a pretty large divot in the work face.
The
> > > defect is about 2x3 inches and is as deep as 1/2" at one point.  I
used
> > the
> > > anvil to work smaller projects for about 3 years before I could find
> > > another anvil in the area that I could afford.
> > >
> > > At one point I tried to build up the divot using a hard surfacing weld
> > rod,
> > > but saw that over time the repair began to develop a lot of cracks and
> > > eventually began to chip as I worked the anvil surface.  Over the past
> > > month I've been considering making a second attempt at the repair,
this
> > > time using a low hydrogen weld rod (7018) instead.  The anvil face has
a
> > > pretty high carbon content (I'm basing this on a spark test) so I'm
not
> > > sure what kinds of pre- and post-heating procedures I should use in
the
> > > repair.  In my first attempt I did not try to preheat the surface, and
> > I've
> > > heard that this may have been the cause of the cracking.  I've heard
> that
> > I
> > > should preheat the surface to ~350 degrees and maintain this
temperature
> > > through the weld repair and for 2 to 3 hours after I've completed the
> > > repair in order to reduce cracking.
> > >
> > > I was wondering if anyone else has had experience in making this type
of
> > > repair to an anvil face, and if so, I'd appreciate any insight that
> could
> > > be provided.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Kevin
> > >
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