[TheForge] Refacing old anvils?

Tue Apr 1 23:17:00 2003

All Hands:  Chuck has some good ideas!  It would also be helpful to preheat
the vermiculite prior to laying it on the anvil face.  Do this by placing
the vermiculite in a steel container and laying in some steel bars heated
orange.

The peening is a good idea.

                                        Grant
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Tull" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 4:46 PM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Refacing old anvils?

> If you use MG750    rod ,no pre-post heating req'd.
> Makes it too simple.
> dan tull
> georgia
> abba, afc, S.C. psba, obg,sofa
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Chuck Robinson" <[email protected]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 7:37 PM
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Refacing old anvils?
>
>
> > Hey Kevin,
> > Between your and Grants ideas you should get it just about right.
> > I would only add that in the preheat I would use 2 tempil sticks, a 325
F
> > stick to show when you are at  the welding and below the heat treating
> > range, and a 375F Tempil stick to indicate your not to exceed
temperature.
> > I suspect since you have a hard faced anvil you
> > could start to anneal it above 375F.
> > When you heat the anvil with the weed burner pre heat pre heat the
> thickest
> > portion of the body first and move the flame around to insure even
> heating.
> > Immediately after laying down a weld bead, thoroughly peen it with a
ball
> > peen hammer, to reduce the weld bead shrinkage stresses.
> > Check with Messer to se about using a softer deep penetrating rod for
the
> > root passes before layering the hard face rod. I
> >  have had good luck using 6010 for the root passes and 7018 for the top
> > coating.
> > After completing welding, put it in a container and cover the anvil with
> > vermiculite insulation and let it slow cool over night.
> > Chuck
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "gblacksmith" <[email protected]>
> > To: <[email protected]>
> > Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 11:24 AM
> > Subject: Re: [TheForge] Refacing old anvils?
> >
> >
> > > Kevin:  The lack of preheat could have caused your cracking at the
> welded
> > > surface.  Without knowing your exact technique for doing this repair,
I
> > > can't be sure.
> > >
> > > Some claim that preheating is not necessary, others insist that it is.
> If
> > > you choose to preheat (I would...I typically preheat generously when
> > welding
> > > tool steel to low-carbon in "found art"sculpture.) you can use a weed
> > > burner.  I would recommend building a firebrick "igloo" around your
> anvil,
> > > and inserting the wide weed burner tip from the side or bottom, like a
> > raku
> > > kiln.  Preheat the anvil to roughly 390F by blowing a low flame on
each
> > side
> > > of the anvil for 50 min. to one hour.  Use a tempil stick to measure
> > > temperature.
> > >
> > > There is a company called Messer who makes a hard-facing welding rod
> > called
> > > MG 710 which is used in this type of repair.  Note that final hardness
> > will
> > > depend on how many beads you run. Contact Messer technical assistance
> for
> > > advice on the procedure...they have a 1-800 number.  DON'T TRY
GUESSING!
> > >
> > >     Also, I would recommend grinding out all of the previous
weld...not
> > all
> > > rods are compatible.
> > >
> > > Remember to take you time and not rush the job.
> > >
> > > I hope this helps
> > >
> > >                                     Grant Marcoux
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Kevin" <[email protected]>
> > > To: <[email protected]>
> > > Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 7:23 AM
> > > Subject: [TheForge] Refacing old anvils?
> > >
> > >
> > > > I'm a relatively new member to the listserve and I wanted to ask for
> > > > opinions about making repairs to an anvil face.  I picked up an old
> > anvil
> > > > about 8-9 years ago that has a pretty large divot in the work face.
> The
> > > > defect is about 2x3 inches and is as deep as 1/2" at one point.  I
> used
> > > the
> > > > anvil to work smaller projects for about 3 years before I could find
> > > > another anvil in the area that I could afford.
> > > >
> > > > At one point I tried to build up the divot using a hard surfacing
weld
> > > rod,
> > > > but saw that over time the repair began to develop a lot of cracks
and
> > > > eventually began to chip as I worked the anvil surface.  Over the
past
> > > > month I've been considering making a second attempt at the repair,
> this
> > > > time using a low hydrogen weld rod (7018) instead.  The anvil face
has
> a
> > > > pretty high carbon content (I'm basing this on a spark test) so I'm
> not
> > > > sure what kinds of pre- and post-heating procedures I should use in
> the
> > > > repair.  In my first attempt I did not try to preheat the surface,
and
> > > I've
> > > > heard that this may have been the cause of the cracking.  I've heard
> > that
> > > I
> > > > should preheat the surface to ~350 degrees and maintain this
> temperature
> > > > through the weld repair and for 2 to 3 hours after I've completed
the
> > > > repair in order to reduce cracking.
> > > >
> > > > I was wondering if anyone else has had experience in making this
type
> of
> > > > repair to an anvil face, and if so, I'd appreciate any insight that
> > could
> > > > be provided.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > Kevin
> > > >
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