[TheForge] Refacing old anvils?

Tue Apr 1 19:40:04 2003

Hey Kevin,
Between your and Grants ideas you should get it just about right.
I would only add that in the preheat I would use 2 tempil sticks, a 325 F
stick to show when you are at  the welding and below the heat treating
range, and a 375F Tempil stick to indicate your not to exceed temperature.
I suspect since you have a hard faced anvil you
could start to anneal it above 375F.
When you heat the anvil with the weed burner pre heat pre heat the thickest
portion of the body first and move the flame around to insure even heating.
Immediately after laying down a weld bead, thoroughly peen it with a ball
peen hammer, to reduce the weld bead shrinkage stresses.
Check with Messer to se about using a softer deep penetrating rod for the
root passes before layering the hard face rod. I
 have had good luck using 6010 for the root passes and 7018 for the top
coating.
After completing welding, put it in a container and cover the anvil with
vermiculite insulation and let it slow cool over night.
Chuck

----- Original Message -----
From: "gblacksmith" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 11:24 AM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Refacing old anvils?

> Kevin:  The lack of preheat could have caused your cracking at the welded
> surface.  Without knowing your exact technique for doing this repair, I
> can't be sure.
>
> Some claim that preheating is not necessary, others insist that it is.  If
> you choose to preheat (I would...I typically preheat generously when
welding
> tool steel to low-carbon in "found art"sculpture.) you can use a weed
> burner.  I would recommend building a firebrick "igloo" around your anvil,
> and inserting the wide weed burner tip from the side or bottom, like a
raku
> kiln.  Preheat the anvil to roughly 390F by blowing a low flame on each
side
> of the anvil for 50 min. to one hour.  Use a tempil stick to measure
> temperature.
>
> There is a company called Messer who makes a hard-facing welding rod
called
> MG 710 which is used in this type of repair.  Note that final hardness
will
> depend on how many beads you run. Contact Messer technical assistance for
> advice on the procedure...they have a 1-800 number.  DON'T TRY GUESSING!
>
>     Also, I would recommend grinding out all of the previous weld...not
all
> rods are compatible.
>
> Remember to take you time and not rush the job.
>
> I hope this helps
>
>                                     Grant Marcoux
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kevin" <[email protected]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 7:23 AM
> Subject: [TheForge] Refacing old anvils?
>
>
> > I'm a relatively new member to the listserve and I wanted to ask for
> > opinions about making repairs to an anvil face.  I picked up an old
anvil
> > about 8-9 years ago that has a pretty large divot in the work face.  The
> > defect is about 2x3 inches and is as deep as 1/2" at one point.  I used
> the
> > anvil to work smaller projects for about 3 years before I could find
> > another anvil in the area that I could afford.
> >
> > At one point I tried to build up the divot using a hard surfacing weld
> rod,
> > but saw that over time the repair began to develop a lot of cracks and
> > eventually began to chip as I worked the anvil surface.  Over the past
> > month I've been considering making a second attempt at the repair, this
> > time using a low hydrogen weld rod (7018) instead.  The anvil face has a
> > pretty high carbon content (I'm basing this on a spark test) so I'm not
> > sure what kinds of pre- and post-heating procedures I should use in the
> > repair.  In my first attempt I did not try to preheat the surface, and
> I've
> > heard that this may have been the cause of the cracking.  I've heard
that
> I
> > should preheat the surface to ~350 degrees and maintain this temperature
> > through the weld repair and for 2 to 3 hours after I've completed the
> > repair in order to reduce cracking.
> >
> > I was wondering if anyone else has had experience in making this type of
> > repair to an anvil face, and if so, I'd appreciate any insight that
could
> > be provided.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Kevin
> >
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