[TheForge] Rivet question

[Peter Fels & Phoebe Palmer]

It’s kinda like the old computer query;
“Saving any time yet?”
Actually, it would if i could resist taking that last swat. Sigh.
It’s that last blow that gets me in trouble forging bronze or tool steel
when it’s gotten too cold too.
Chronic.

On Mar 1, 2015, at 10:46 PM, jerry Frost <akfrosty at mtaonline.net> wrote:

I use a 16oz ball pein on large, over 5/16" iron rivets. Does a treadle
hammer rivet set save a lot of time?

Sorry Pete I couldn't help it. <snicker>

Jer
-----Original Message-----
From: TheForge [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Peter
Fels & Phoebe Palmer
Sent: Sunday, March 1, 2015 8:20 PM
To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Rivet question

Thanks Jerry and Bob.
Yeah, got impatient and used the treadle hammer to rough set it in.

On Mar 1, 2015, at 8:20 PM, Bob Ehrenberger <eforge at centurytel.net> wrote:

From: TheForge [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Peter
Fels & Phoebe Palmer
Sent: Sunday, March 1, 2015 2:20 PM
To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Test

OK.BS question:
I was assembling one of my  jointed bottle openers ( one that i had to take
back apart and forge on some more to get the parts to work right), and after
i'd set down and headed the 1/4" brass rivet, i had to spend 15 minutes
wiggling it back and forth to free it up.
Both holes were hot punched and the mating surfaces were hand forged so
nothing was accurately aligned.
What's the best, quickest way to keep the parts moving freely after the
rivet is set down?

-- Reply---
The best thing is to prevent the rivet from getting too tight in the first
place.
If you put a piece of card stock between the parts before riveting you can
remove it after riveting and there should be some clearance.  Also when
setting the rivet the lighter the hammer you use the easier it is to keep
the upset at the very end.

Bob Ehrenberger
Shelbyville, MO

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