[TheForge] Question about metallic heat shield for wood stoves

Sun Oct 26 19:34:12 EDT 2014

On 10/26/14, 5:06 PM, Peter Fels & Phoebe Palmer wrote:
> Dampers...good idea.
>   How do you clean that sticky crap out of a heat exchanger?

Beats the hell out of me.  By "easy" I meant access.  No idea how to 
remove creosote.
>
> On Oct 26, 2014, at 1:45 PM, Andrew Vida wrote:
>
> This reminds me... I know we've had this discussion here before, but could we redux the heat excahnger thing?
>
> I was thinking of making one for Elaine but as I mentioned, do not want to burn her house down.
>
> My concern is cooling the gases too much and causing creosote buildup in the stack.  Not worried about it that much in the exchanger because I could design it to be easily cleaned.
>
> Thoughts??
>
> Oh, one other thing, re: stack fire protection.  Would it pay to place a damper on each end of the stack such that if perchance it starts roaring, one could close off the O2 and starve the combustion?
>
>
>
> On 10/24/14, 6:02 PM, Peter Fels & Phoebe Palmer wrote:
>> For many years my bread and butter was custom, one-off, sculptural steel fireplaces.
>> I finally got , um, burnt out on making them.
>> If we ever get a final on our house, i'm going to have to get some help to remove the one i made for us,
>> and go out and rent a modern one for a few weeks just to pass.
>> Can you see my lip curl?
>>
>> On Oct 24, 2014, at 2:19 PM, jerry Frost wrote:
>>
>> Andy: You need to check code in the area for specific stand off distances
>> and acceptable materials, et. The homeowner's insurance company will have it
>> all at hand.
>>
>> Legal here is non flammable at 1" stand off from sheetrock wall. Stove stand
>> off if a shielded stove is 6" from shield. As I recall a non-shielded stove
>> needs to be a minimum 36" from any flammable material.
>>
>> Our shield is cement backer board on 1" standoffs tiled with slate. Our
>> stove pipe is SS triple wall which allows a 2" gap to bare wood, there is a
>> double wall slip joint from the stove to the ceiling jack and triple wall.
>> That meets code HERE.
>>
>> We have a Jotul, 3 zone stove that's a really nice and state of the art (10
>> years ago) efficient and clean burning stove.
>>
>> A parlor stove is typically rectangular so it can be installed along the
>> wall and not take extend as far into the room for the stove's volume.
>> Another terrific feature of our Jotul is the window, it's the same basic
>> ceramic as the shuttle wind shields and is rated to take being drenched with
>> cold water at 1,600f. and doesn't care about getting bumped by logs or fire
>> tools. The ceramic also is pretty transparent to IR so you can stand in
>> front of the stove and warm up before the stove body is too warm to touch.
>> Great stuff I think all stove windows are being made from it.
>>
>> One last serious word of advice no I Repeat NO catalytic stoves! They're not
>> much more clean burning than an old school stove and a fire hazard when the
>> catalytic wears/degrades/ whatever they do. We almost lost the house to a
>> stack fire only a couple weeks after having it cleaned and inspected, the
>> catalytic died and started MAKING creosote because of the restriction.
>>
>> Jer
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Andrew Vida <osan at netlabs.net>
>>> Sent: Oct 24, 2014 6:05 AM
>>> To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>>> Subject: [TheForge] Question about metallic heat shield for wood
>>> stoves
>>>
>>> About three years ago our friend Elaine had a terrible thing happen.
>>> Her husband, Phil, did a Jerry with a tree, only he did not survive.
>>> She has been having a terrible time since.  Elaine is as kind and
>>> decent and sweet a human being as anyone could ever hope to meet.
>>> Bibi and I try to help her as much as we can, though she never asks.
>>>
>>> She is replacing her wood stove with a newer one and wants to do the
>>> install as close to correctly as possible with an eye to possible sale
>>> of the farm as she is about 65 and not getting younger.  She has been
>>> unsure of how to do the tile deal on the walls and I suggested to her
>>> a metallic heat shield between the stove and walls.  That would allow
>>> her to place the stove closer to the wall, which will perforce have to
>>> sit catty-corner in order to look proper.  It will be on a raised
>>> platform that I suppose I will be building. :)  I was thinking a slate
>>> top to the dais, but that is another issue entirely.
>>>
>>> My idea is to weld up a frame to which sheet metal ca. 20-18 ga. is
>>> fixed and arranged to reflect the heat back into the room and away
>>> from the wall.  I do not think more than a 4" - 6" gap between heater
>>> and shield is needed but thought I would ask you guys in case I am
>>> mistaken.  I've never done this sort of thing before and do not wish
>>> to be responsible for our friend's house burning down.
>>>
>>> Also, how close should we be able to place the shield to the interior
>>> wall of the house?  We have gas heaters that throw off a lot of heat,
>>> yet the skimpy sheet metal backs allow us to place the units either on
>>> the wall or no more than 6" away and keeps  things barely warm to the
>>> touch.  Elaine is concerned that the arrangement of the stove will eat
>>> too much space in the room, so I would like to get it as close to the
>>> wall without being completely imprudent of safety.
>>>
>>> Other OT question: the man who built the addition to the house sort of
>>> pooched a few items.  Apparently he failed to flash at least two
>>> valleys where the old and new meet and there is one small leak where
>>> vertical meets slope and the T-111 in one place is beginning to show
>>> decay below her bedroom window.  My idea, without having seen the
>>> situation yet, is to flash the areas but I've never attempted to do it
>>> on an existent structure with tar shingles and was wondering if anyone had
>> any wisdom.
>>> My thinking is to do a step-flashing on the former, getting the metal
>>> under the shingles in the corner, gooing the hell out of the top with
>>> tar.  Not sure that is the right approach, though as water can get
>>> under the shingles, but is stopped by the metal below to protect the
>>> substrate.  Is this OK, or should the metal sit atop both surfaces
>>> with a ton of tar sealing each long seam?
>>>
>>> Same  for the latter situation - metal outside the T-111, gooed up
>>> real good and atop the roof sloping down and away from the windows.
>>>
>>> Thought is copper flashing with copper roofing nails or aluminum
>>> w/aluminum or perhaps stainless nails.  Not sure about the stainless
>>> and any galvanic reactions, though.
>>>
>>> Any thoughts and help would be very much appreciated.  I'd thought to
>>> include her email address so you could reply directly, but her machine
>>> is down... poor girl is having a really hard time with just about
>>> everything... one of those "when it rains it pours" situations.
>>>
>>> Thanks guys.
>>>
>>> -Andy
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