[TheForge] Question about metallic heat shield for wood stoves

Sun Oct 26 22:03:35 EDT 2014

My last wood stove had a catalytic converter in it.  The catalytic
converter during my time using the stove kept the stove pipe clean.  I had
an insulated pipe that had a stainless liner.   The heat shield was an inch
off the wall and bricks 1 inch from the shield.  The bricks acted as a heat
sink and radiated the adsorbed heat back into the house when the stove
coo.led down.  I had a single wrap of black pipe in the firebox to pre heat
a separate water tank for domestic hot water.  It was a good solution to
the frequent power outages we had.  When I moved we upgraded to a gas
fireplace.  No more ash haul out.

On Sun, Oct 26, 2014 at 4:34 PM, Andrew Vida <osan at netlabs.net> wrote:

>
> On 10/26/14, 5:06 PM, Peter Fels & Phoebe Palmer wrote:
>
>> Dampers...good idea.
>>   How do you clean that sticky crap out of a heat exchanger?
>>
>
> Beats the hell out of me.  By "easy" I meant access.  No idea how to
> remove creosote.
>
>
>> On Oct 26, 2014, at 1:45 PM, Andrew Vida wrote:
>>
>> This reminds me... I know we've had this discussion here before, but
>> could we redux the heat excahnger thing?
>>
>> I was thinking of making one for Elaine but as I mentioned, do not want
>> to burn her house down.
>>
>> My concern is cooling the gases too much and causing creosote buildup in
>> the stack.  Not worried about it that much in the exchanger because I could
>> design it to be easily cleaned.
>>
>> Thoughts??
>>
>> Oh, one other thing, re: stack fire protection.  Would it pay to place a
>> damper on each end of the stack such that if perchance it starts roaring,
>> one could close off the O2 and starve the combustion?
>>
>>
>>
>> On 10/24/14, 6:02 PM, Peter Fels & Phoebe Palmer wrote:
>>
>>> For many years my bread and butter was custom, one-off, sculptural steel
>>> fireplaces.
>>> I finally got , um, burnt out on making them.
>>> If we ever get a final on our house, i'm going to have to get some help
>>> to remove the one i made for us,
>>> and go out and rent a modern one for a few weeks just to pass.
>>> Can you see my lip curl?
>>>
>>> On Oct 24, 2014, at 2:19 PM, jerry Frost wrote:
>>>
>>> Andy: You need to check code in the area for specific stand off distances
>>> and acceptable materials, et. The homeowner's insurance company will
>>> have it
>>> all at hand.
>>>
>>> Legal here is non flammable at 1" stand off from sheetrock wall. Stove
>>> stand
>>> off if a shielded stove is 6" from shield. As I recall a non-shielded
>>> stove
>>> needs to be a minimum 36" from any flammable material.
>>>
>>> Our shield is cement backer board on 1" standoffs tiled with slate. Our
>>> stove pipe is SS triple wall which allows a 2" gap to bare wood, there
>>> is a
>>> double wall slip joint from the stove to the ceiling jack and triple
>>> wall.
>>> That meets code HERE.
>>>
>>> We have a Jotul, 3 zone stove that's a really nice and state of the art
>>> (10
>>> years ago) efficient and clean burning stove.
>>>
>>> A parlor stove is typically rectangular so it can be installed along the
>>> wall and not take extend as far into the room for the stove's volume.
>>> Another terrific feature of our Jotul is the window, it's the same basic
>>> ceramic as the shuttle wind shields and is rated to take being drenched
>>> with
>>> cold water at 1,600f. and doesn't care about getting bumped by logs or
>>> fire
>>> tools. The ceramic also is pretty transparent to IR so you can stand in
>>> front of the stove and warm up before the stove body is too warm to
>>> touch.
>>> Great stuff I think all stove windows are being made from it.
>>>
>>> One last serious word of advice no I Repeat NO catalytic stoves! They're
>>> not
>>> much more clean burning than an old school stove and a fire hazard when
>>> the
>>> catalytic wears/degrades/ whatever they do. We almost lost the house to a
>>> stack fire only a couple weeks after having it cleaned and inspected, the
>>> catalytic died and started MAKING creosote because of the restriction.
>>>
>>> Jer
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>
>>>> From: Andrew Vida <osan at netlabs.net>
>>>> Sent: Oct 24, 2014 6:05 AM
>>>> To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>>>> Subject: [TheForge] Question about metallic heat shield for wood
>>>> stoves
>>>>
>>>> About three years ago our friend Elaine had a terrible thing happen.
>>>> Her husband, Phil, did a Jerry with a tree, only he did not survive.
>>>> She has been having a terrible time since.  Elaine is as kind and
>>>> decent and sweet a human being as anyone could ever hope to meet.
>>>> Bibi and I try to help her as much as we can, though she never asks.
>>>>
>>>> She is replacing her wood stove with a newer one and wants to do the
>>>> install as close to correctly as possible with an eye to possible sale
>>>> of the farm as she is about 65 and not getting younger.  She has been
>>>> unsure of how to do the tile deal on the walls and I suggested to her
>>>> a metallic heat shield between the stove and walls.  That would allow
>>>> her to place the stove closer to the wall, which will perforce have to
>>>> sit catty-corner in order to look proper.  It will be on a raised
>>>> platform that I suppose I will be building. :)  I was thinking a slate
>>>> top to the dais, but that is another issue entirely.
>>>>
>>>> My idea is to weld up a frame to which sheet metal ca. 20-18 ga. is
>>>> fixed and arranged to reflect the heat back into the room and away
>>>> from the wall.  I do not think more than a 4" - 6" gap between heater
>>>> and shield is needed but thought I would ask you guys in case I am
>>>> mistaken.  I've never done this sort of thing before and do not wish
>>>> to be responsible for our friend's house burning down.
>>>>
>>>> Also, how close should we be able to place the shield to the interior
>>>> wall of the house?  We have gas heaters that throw off a lot of heat,
>>>> yet the skimpy sheet metal backs allow us to place the units either on
>>>> the wall or no more than 6" away and keeps  things barely warm to the
>>>> touch.  Elaine is concerned that the arrangement of the stove will eat
>>>> too much space in the room, so I would like to get it as close to the
>>>> wall without being completely imprudent of safety.
>>>>
>>>> Other OT question: the man who built the addition to the house sort of
>>>> pooched a few items.  Apparently he failed to flash at least two
>>>> valleys where the old and new meet and there is one small leak where
>>>> vertical meets slope and the T-111 in one place is beginning to show
>>>> decay below her bedroom window.  My idea, without having seen the
>>>> situation yet, is to flash the areas but I've never attempted to do it
>>>> on an existent structure with tar shingles and was wondering if anyone
>>>> had
>>>>
>>> any wisdom.
>>>
>>>> My thinking is to do a step-flashing on the former, getting the metal
>>>> under the shingles in the corner, gooing the hell out of the top with
>>>> tar.  Not sure that is the right approach, though as water can get
>>>> under the shingles, but is stopped by the metal below to protect the
>>>> substrate.  Is this OK, or should the metal sit atop both surfaces
>>>> with a ton of tar sealing each long seam?
>>>>
>>>> Same  for the latter situation - metal outside the T-111, gooed up
>>>> real good and atop the roof sloping down and away from the windows.
>>>>
>>>> Thought is copper flashing with copper roofing nails or aluminum
>>>> w/aluminum or perhaps stainless nails.  Not sure about the stainless
>>>> and any galvanic reactions, though.
>>>>
>>>> Any thoughts and help would be very much appreciated.  I'd thought to
>>>> include her email address so you could reply directly, but her machine
>>>> is down... poor girl is having a really hard time with just about
>>>> everything... one of those "when it rains it pours" situations.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks guys.
>>>>
>>>> -Andy
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