[TheForge] Question about metallic heat shield for wood stoves

Sun Oct 26 17:06:38 EDT 2014

Dampers...good idea.
 How do you clean that sticky crap out of a heat exchanger?

On Oct 26, 2014, at 1:45 PM, Andrew Vida wrote:

This reminds me... I know we've had this discussion here before, but could we redux the heat excahnger thing?

I was thinking of making one for Elaine but as I mentioned, do not want to burn her house down.

My concern is cooling the gases too much and causing creosote buildup in the stack.  Not worried about it that much in the exchanger because I could design it to be easily cleaned.

Thoughts??

Oh, one other thing, re: stack fire protection.  Would it pay to place a damper on each end of the stack such that if perchance it starts roaring, one could close off the O2 and starve the combustion?

On 10/24/14, 6:02 PM, Peter Fels & Phoebe Palmer wrote:
> For many years my bread and butter was custom, one-off, sculptural steel fireplaces.
> I finally got , um, burnt out on making them.
> If we ever get a final on our house, i'm going to have to get some help to remove the one i made for us,
> and go out and rent a modern one for a few weeks just to pass.
> Can you see my lip curl?
> 
> On Oct 24, 2014, at 2:19 PM, jerry Frost wrote:
> 
> Andy: You need to check code in the area for specific stand off distances
> and acceptable materials, et. The homeowner's insurance company will have it
> all at hand.
> 
> Legal here is non flammable at 1" stand off from sheetrock wall. Stove stand
> off if a shielded stove is 6" from shield. As I recall a non-shielded stove
> needs to be a minimum 36" from any flammable material.
> 
> Our shield is cement backer board on 1" standoffs tiled with slate. Our
> stove pipe is SS triple wall which allows a 2" gap to bare wood, there is a
> double wall slip joint from the stove to the ceiling jack and triple wall.
> That meets code HERE.
> 
> We have a Jotul, 3 zone stove that's a really nice and state of the art (10
> years ago) efficient and clean burning stove.
> 
> A parlor stove is typically rectangular so it can be installed along the
> wall and not take extend as far into the room for the stove's volume.
> Another terrific feature of our Jotul is the window, it's the same basic
> ceramic as the shuttle wind shields and is rated to take being drenched with
> cold water at 1,600f. and doesn't care about getting bumped by logs or fire
> tools. The ceramic also is pretty transparent to IR so you can stand in
> front of the stove and warm up before the stove body is too warm to touch.
> Great stuff I think all stove windows are being made from it.
> 
> One last serious word of advice no I Repeat NO catalytic stoves! They're not
> much more clean burning than an old school stove and a fire hazard when the
> catalytic wears/degrades/ whatever they do. We almost lost the house to a
> stack fire only a couple weeks after having it cleaned and inspected, the
> catalytic died and started MAKING creosote because of the restriction.
> 
> Jer
> 
> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Andrew Vida <osan at netlabs.net>
>> Sent: Oct 24, 2014 6:05 AM
>> To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>> Subject: [TheForge] Question about metallic heat shield for wood
>> stoves
>> 
>> About three years ago our friend Elaine had a terrible thing happen.
>> Her husband, Phil, did a Jerry with a tree, only he did not survive.
>> She has been having a terrible time since.  Elaine is as kind and
>> decent and sweet a human being as anyone could ever hope to meet.
>> Bibi and I try to help her as much as we can, though she never asks.
>> 
>> She is replacing her wood stove with a newer one and wants to do the
>> install as close to correctly as possible with an eye to possible sale
>> of the farm as she is about 65 and not getting younger.  She has been
>> unsure of how to do the tile deal on the walls and I suggested to her
>> a metallic heat shield between the stove and walls.  That would allow
>> her to place the stove closer to the wall, which will perforce have to
>> sit catty-corner in order to look proper.  It will be on a raised
>> platform that I suppose I will be building. :)  I was thinking a slate
>> top to the dais, but that is another issue entirely.
>> 
>> My idea is to weld up a frame to which sheet metal ca. 20-18 ga. is
>> fixed and arranged to reflect the heat back into the room and away
>> from the wall.  I do not think more than a 4" - 6" gap between heater
>> and shield is needed but thought I would ask you guys in case I am
>> mistaken.  I've never done this sort of thing before and do not wish
>> to be responsible for our friend's house burning down.
>> 
>> Also, how close should we be able to place the shield to the interior
>> wall of the house?  We have gas heaters that throw off a lot of heat,
>> yet the skimpy sheet metal backs allow us to place the units either on
>> the wall or no more than 6" away and keeps  things barely warm to the
>> touch.  Elaine is concerned that the arrangement of the stove will eat
>> too much space in the room, so I would like to get it as close to the
>> wall without being completely imprudent of safety.
>> 
>> Other OT question: the man who built the addition to the house sort of
>> pooched a few items.  Apparently he failed to flash at least two
>> valleys where the old and new meet and there is one small leak where
>> vertical meets slope and the T-111 in one place is beginning to show
>> decay below her bedroom window.  My idea, without having seen the
>> situation yet, is to flash the areas but I've never attempted to do it
>> on an existent structure with tar shingles and was wondering if anyone had
> any wisdom.
>> My thinking is to do a step-flashing on the former, getting the metal
>> under the shingles in the corner, gooing the hell out of the top with
>> tar.  Not sure that is the right approach, though as water can get
>> under the shingles, but is stopped by the metal below to protect the
>> substrate.  Is this OK, or should the metal sit atop both surfaces
>> with a ton of tar sealing each long seam?
>> 
>> Same  for the latter situation - metal outside the T-111, gooed up
>> real good and atop the roof sloping down and away from the windows.
>> 
>> Thought is copper flashing with copper roofing nails or aluminum
>> w/aluminum or perhaps stainless nails.  Not sure about the stainless
>> and any galvanic reactions, though.
>> 
>> Any thoughts and help would be very much appreciated.  I'd thought to
>> include her email address so you could reply directly, but her machine
>> is down... poor girl is having a really hard time with just about
>> everything... one of those "when it rains it pours" situations.
>> 
>> Thanks guys.
>> 
>> -Andy
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