[TheForge] Question about metallic heat shield for wood stoves

[Peter Fels & Phoebe Palmer]

I'd add that cement board is cheap, stiff and reasonably fire proof as well as accepts a decorative plaster face.

On Oct 24, 2014, at 6:41 AM, John switzer wrote:

Code requires a 36" space for a non-rated stove.  If you can find the stove manufactures specs it may be approved for a closer spacing.  In any case a metal heat shield (or any other non combustible material for that matter) will allow for half of the clearence.  The heat shield must have a 1" air gap between the stove, if installed there or the wall with no fasteners directly between the stove and the wall.  Also a 1" gap at the floor.  Often times with a newer stove, the chimney is the issue, double wall black pie really cuts own the space requirements there as well.  I think you can instal a double heat shield to further cut down on the clearence.  A call tothe local building department will answer any questions.

John


John Switzer
Black Bear Forge
P.O. Box 4
Beulah, CO 81023


-----Original Message-----
> From: Andrew Vida <osan at netlabs.net>
> Sent: Oct 24, 2014 6:05 AM
> To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: [TheForge] Question about metallic heat shield for wood stoves
> 
> About three years ago our friend Elaine had a terrible thing happen.  
> Her husband, Phil, did a Jerry with a tree, only he did not survive.  
> She has been having a terrible time since.  Elaine is as kind and decent 
> and sweet a human being as anyone could ever hope to meet.  Bibi and I 
> try to help her as much as we can, though she never asks.
> 
> She is replacing her wood stove with a newer one and wants to do the 
> install as close to correctly as possible with an eye to possible sale 
> of the farm as she is about 65 and not getting younger.  She has been 
> unsure of how to do the tile deal on the walls and I suggested to her a 
> metallic heat shield between the stove and walls.  That would allow her 
> to place the stove closer to the wall, which will perforce have to sit 
> catty-corner in order to look proper.  It will be on a raised platform 
> that I suppose I will be building. :)  I was thinking a slate top to the 
> dais, but that is another issue entirely.
> 
> My idea is to weld up a frame to which sheet metal ca. 20-18 ga. is 
> fixed and arranged to reflect the heat back into the room and away from 
> the wall.  I do not think more than a 4" - 6" gap between heater and 
> shield is needed but thought I would ask you guys in case I am 
> mistaken.  I've never done this sort of thing before and do not wish to 
> be responsible for our friend's house burning down.
> 
> Also, how close should we be able to place the shield to the interior 
> wall of the house?  We have gas heaters that throw off a lot of heat, 
> yet the skimpy sheet metal backs allow us to place the units either on 
> the wall or no more than 6" away and keeps  things barely warm to the 
> touch.  Elaine is concerned that the arrangement of the stove will eat 
> too much space in the room, so I would like to get it as close to the 
> wall without being completely imprudent of safety.
> 
> Other OT question: the man who built the addition to the house sort of 
> pooched a few items.  Apparently he failed to flash at least two valleys 
> where the old and new meet and there is one small leak where vertical 
> meets slope and the T-111 in one place is beginning to show decay below 
> her bedroom window.  My idea, without having seen the situation yet, is 
> to flash the areas but I've never attempted to do it on an existent 
> structure with tar shingles and was wondering if anyone had any wisdom.  
> My thinking is to do a step-flashing on the former, getting the metal 
> under the shingles in the corner, gooing the hell out of the top with 
> tar.  Not sure that is the right approach, though as water can get under 
> the shingles, but is stopped by the metal below to protect the 
> substrate.  Is this OK, or should the metal sit atop both surfaces with 
> a ton of tar sealing each long seam?
> 
> Same  for the latter situation - metal outside the T-111, gooed up real 
> good and atop the roof sloping down and away from the windows.
> 
> Thought is copper flashing with copper roofing nails or aluminum 
> w/aluminum or perhaps stainless nails.  Not sure about the stainless and 
> any galvanic reactions, though.
> 
> Any thoughts and help would be very much appreciated.  I'd thought to 
> include her email address so you could reply directly, but her machine 
> is down... poor girl is having a really hard time with just about 
> everything... one of those "when it rains it pours" situations.
> 
> Thanks guys.
> 
> -Andy
> ______________________________________________________________
> TheForge mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/theforge
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:TheForge at mailman.qth.net
> 
> TheForge mail list group photo site is
> http://www.shutterfly.com
> Login: blacksmithblacksmith at hotmail.com
> Password: anvil
> 
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

______________________________________________________________
TheForge mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/theforge
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:TheForge at mailman.qth.net

TheForge mail list group photo site is
http://www.shutterfly.com
Login: blacksmithblacksmith at hotmail.com
Password: anvil

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html