[TheForge] Question about metallic heat shield for wood stoves

Fri Oct 24 09:41:47 EDT 2014

Code requires a 36" space for a non-rated stove.  If you can find the stove manufactures specs it may be approved for a closer spacing.  In any case a metal heat shield (or any other non combustible material for that matter) will allow for half of the clearence.  The heat shield must have a 1" air gap between the stove, if installed there or the wall with no fasteners directly between the stove and the wall.  Also a 1" gap at the floor.  Often times with a newer stove, the chimney is the issue, double wall black pie really cuts own the space requirements there as well.  I think you can instal a double heat shield to further cut down on the clearence.  A call tothe local building department will answer any questions.

John

John Switzer
Black Bear Forge
P.O. Box 4
Beulah, CO 81023

-----Original Message-----
>From: Andrew Vida <osan at netlabs.net>
>Sent: Oct 24, 2014 6:05 AM
>To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>Subject: [TheForge] Question about metallic heat shield for wood stoves
>
>About three years ago our friend Elaine had a terrible thing happen.  
>Her husband, Phil, did a Jerry with a tree, only he did not survive.  
>She has been having a terrible time since.  Elaine is as kind and decent 
>and sweet a human being as anyone could ever hope to meet.  Bibi and I 
>try to help her as much as we can, though she never asks.
>
>She is replacing her wood stove with a newer one and wants to do the 
>install as close to correctly as possible with an eye to possible sale 
>of the farm as she is about 65 and not getting younger.  She has been 
>unsure of how to do the tile deal on the walls and I suggested to her a 
>metallic heat shield between the stove and walls.  That would allow her 
>to place the stove closer to the wall, which will perforce have to sit 
>catty-corner in order to look proper.  It will be on a raised platform 
>that I suppose I will be building. :)  I was thinking a slate top to the 
>dais, but that is another issue entirely.
>
>My idea is to weld up a frame to which sheet metal ca. 20-18 ga. is 
>fixed and arranged to reflect the heat back into the room and away from 
>the wall.  I do not think more than a 4" - 6" gap between heater and 
>shield is needed but thought I would ask you guys in case I am 
>mistaken.  I've never done this sort of thing before and do not wish to 
>be responsible for our friend's house burning down.
>
>Also, how close should we be able to place the shield to the interior 
>wall of the house?  We have gas heaters that throw off a lot of heat, 
>yet the skimpy sheet metal backs allow us to place the units either on 
>the wall or no more than 6" away and keeps  things barely warm to the 
>touch.  Elaine is concerned that the arrangement of the stove will eat 
>too much space in the room, so I would like to get it as close to the 
>wall without being completely imprudent of safety.
>
>Other OT question: the man who built the addition to the house sort of 
>pooched a few items.  Apparently he failed to flash at least two valleys 
>where the old and new meet and there is one small leak where vertical 
>meets slope and the T-111 in one place is beginning to show decay below 
>her bedroom window.  My idea, without having seen the situation yet, is 
>to flash the areas but I've never attempted to do it on an existent 
>structure with tar shingles and was wondering if anyone had any wisdom.  
>My thinking is to do a step-flashing on the former, getting the metal 
>under the shingles in the corner, gooing the hell out of the top with 
>tar.  Not sure that is the right approach, though as water can get under 
>the shingles, but is stopped by the metal below to protect the 
>substrate.  Is this OK, or should the metal sit atop both surfaces with 
>a ton of tar sealing each long seam?
>
>Same  for the latter situation - metal outside the T-111, gooed up real 
>good and atop the roof sloping down and away from the windows.
>
>Thought is copper flashing with copper roofing nails or aluminum 
>w/aluminum or perhaps stainless nails.  Not sure about the stainless and 
>any galvanic reactions, though.
>
>Any thoughts and help would be very much appreciated.  I'd thought to 
>include her email address so you could reply directly, but her machine 
>is down... poor girl is having a really hard time with just about 
>everything... one of those "when it rains it pours" situations.
>
>Thanks guys.
>
>-Andy
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