[TheForge] Light bulbs and shop power

[Bruce .]

Find out what gauge wires run between house and shop, and look up to
see what gauge should be used over that distance.  I would guess they
should be at least 10-gauge.  Possibly somebody ran only 20-gauge
(which may suffice for lights).

Copper is expensive.  I wonder whether there might be a work-around if
the heavy load is only used occasionally.  Like, maybe, charge a car
battery in the shop, then run the 12V through an inverter to power the
grinder.  This wouldn't make sense for running machines all day, but
if it's a few minutes now, a few minutes later it might save a lot of
money on copper and electrical inspections.

On Fri, Aug 3, 2012 at 7:47 AM, Ron Childers <ron at munlaw.net> wrote:
<snip>
>
> Back on topic: The shop lights go very dim every time a friend turns on
> a grinder in his shop which is over 100 feet from the house. The wiring
> to the shop is fed from the house and there is no drop box. My guess is
> the wire is too small to carry the load that far. If someone honks down
> on the abrasive cut-off saw it trips a breaker in the house. It is an
> electrician's nightmare that was there when he bought the house and so
> far is only annoying, but does anyone know of this kind of situation
> causing a fire? I think it needs heavier copper wire and a drop box.
> Also, I don't know the amperage of the breaker. I used #6 and don't have
> that situation.  I feel a bit uneasy about this but need to justify my
> concerns before beating him up about it. Does anyone have some words of
> wisdom? Thanx, Ron
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jerry Frost
> Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2012 9:32 PM
> To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] TheForge Digest, Vol 102, Issue 14
>
> Simple logic, zero. They hold nothing; vacuum.
>
> Jer
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ron Childers" <ron at munlaw.net>
> To: "Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2012 10:34 AM
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] TheForge Digest, Vol 102, Issue 14
>
>
>> How would you compute the volume of a light bulb? (-:\>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
>> [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Andy Gladish
>> Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2012 1:43 PM
>> To: theforge at mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: Re: [TheForge] TheForge Digest, Vol 102, Issue 14
>>
>> Thanks! I figured this one (a different way involving a lot of
> geometry-
>> I'm going to use your method!) out at 3:30 this morning, lying awake-
>> it's always wierd how simple the solutions are once you get them...
>> Andy G.
>>
>>
>>>
>>> Message: 2
>>> Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2012 15:29:33 -0400
>>> From: "Ron Childers" <ron at munlaw.net>
>>>
>>>
>>> 1/2" pipe or square for the pattern....Bend to shape then lay out on
>>> the shop floor and duplicate. Try it for fit before final welding.
>>> Jeff and crew did one and it was a real treat getting it up to the
> 3rd
>>
>>> story through a narrow staircase after the wall was painted and the
>>> hardwood floor was varnished. It fit; billowed curves and all, yea!
>>> The owner's wife caught us in the act of final fitting and she loved
>>> it..Compliments on the work, husband paid the price and the check
>>> didn't bounce. Fitting on an outdoor railing should be easier but it
>> must adhere to specs...
>>>
>>>
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>>
>>
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-- 
Bruce
NJ