[TheForge] need help on a project

Jerry Frost akfrosty at mtaonline.net
Thu Aug 4 17:47:59 EDT 2011


He'll be in Oregon soon. Phe might like a little time at Tilamook or maybe 
in theMyrtle forest. Lovely wood myrtle and the leaves make a wonderful 
break from Bay, they're both closely related.

Oh heck, a little heat stop, mud and a torch aught to localize the heat to 
the edge. What fun's that though.
Jer
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "peter fels" <artgawk at thegrid.net>
To: "Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 03, 2011 1:56 AM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] need help on a project


>
> On Aug 2, 2011, at 3:02 PM, Jerry Frost wrote:
>
>> Heck Pete, Grant's just a mosey up the road from you.
>
> I think it's a long mosey...especially trying to talk Phe into driving me 
> that far.
>
>> Why not give an
>> induction forge a try? He's got a spot heating implement and you can bend
>> the tubing to almost any shape. It should be possible to heat only the 
>> edge
>> without much hassle.
> I watched him demo it a couple of conferences ago and drooled.
>>
>> Jer
>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> From: "peter fels" <artgawk at thegrid.net>
>> To: "Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>> Sent: Monday, August 01, 2011 11:28 PM
>> Subject: Re: [TheForge] need help on a project
>>
>>
>>> For the application, an edge quench makes sense.
>>>
>>> But, just for discussion.....
>>> I have a few old favorite knives that have been sharpened many times 
>>> over
>>> the years,
>>> so much so, that they are ground past the hardened edge and have become
>>> too soft to keep an edge.
>>> I've goofed around with work hardening the edge, with very modest 
>>> success.
>>> Seems too much trouble to strip them, re-heat treat them and rehandle
>>> them.
>>> I've mused about wrapping the handle in a wet rag and re-edge hardening
>>> them with a torch...Haven't tried yet.
>>>
>>> Last..grousing;
>>> Our pleasant house sitter was very effective at dulling the kitchen
>>> knives..presumably sawing her preferred veggies
>>> on the stone countertop and the ceramic plates.   Arrrrrrg!
>>>
>>> On Aug 1, 2011, at 1:18 PM, Ron Childers wrote:
>>>
>>>> Logic would dictate if the customer said a "Ka-Bar" the military 
>>>> version
>>>> is what he wants. These retail around $65....I agree on the edge
>>>> quench...
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
>>>> [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
>>>> blakkpawss at yahoo.com
>>>> Sent: Monday, August 01, 2011 3:46 PM
>>>> To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
>>>> Subject: Re: [TheForge] need help on a project
>>>>
>>>> In a knife project like this, unless the buyer specifies a specific 
>>>> make
>>>> of the Ka Bar or specifies the type of metal used, it's up to you.  As
>>>> such, pick a metal that will do what you want it to do.  One that you
>>>> know inside and out on working.  Also look at what other knife makers,
>>>> that are using that material, have to say about working it.  Unless the
>>>> knife is double edged or has a saw spine, then an edge quench is the 
>>>> way
>>>> to go.  This will also show a temper line (hamon) if it is finished to 
>>>> a
>>>> degree where it shows(mirror or near mirror).  However, normal wear and
>>>> tear a knife go through will scratch up the surface and mask such a
>>>> temper line.
>>>> Sent from my BlackBerry(r) smartphone powered by Alltel
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: "Ron Childers" <ron at munlaw.net>
>>>> Sender: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
>>>> Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 15:33:46
>>>> To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA<theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>>>> Reply-To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
>>>> <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>>>> Subject: Re: [TheForge] need help on a project
>>>>
>>>> A Q&A article in "Blade" said 1095 was used in the original USMC knives
>>>> in WWII, but it could also have been Camillus or another manufacturer.
>>>> There are over 30 styles of Ka-Bar knives, some of which, including the
>>>> newer USMC commemorative are 440-A Stainless. They list 1095, several
>>>> types of ss, D-2, etc in the glossary but don't say the type of steel 
>>>> in
>>>> every blade style.
>>>>
>>>> Legend has it that Ka-Bar,(Union Cutlery at the time) allegedly got its
>>>> name from a letter sent by a fur trapper in the mid '20's who stated he
>>>> shot a bear and wounded it then his gun jammed and he had to kill the
>>>> attacking bear with his knife. The only readable letters at the bottom
>>>> of the page were K a Bar. The officers of the company were so taken 
>>>> with
>>>> this unsolicited testimonial the name was changed to "Ka-Bar".
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
>>>> [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jason Nass
>>>> Sent: Monday, August 01, 2011 12:28 PM
>>>> To: 'Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA'
>>>> Subject: Re: [TheForge] need help on a project
>>>>
>>>> A good friend used to work for Ka-Bar, and at one point purchased
>>>> several
>>>> tons of drops at scrap price. The steel is 1085, not 1095. He was also
>>>> kind
>>>> enough to give me a small stash of the stuff he got, I use it with 
>>>> 15N20
>>>> to
>>>> make my pattern welded steels. I assume you  want pattern welded
>>>> Damascus,
>>>> and not true Damascus steel, as there are to my knowledge only 2 guys 
>>>> in
>>>> the
>>>> world who have managed to make it in modern times... and I don't think
>>>> that
>>>> it is a 100% process to get the pattern to show. There are a ton of us
>>>> pattern welding, and a ton of suppliers for raw billet. I will make
>>>> billet
>>>> to order, 3/16 x 1 (approximate) runs around $25-$35/ linear inch
>>>> depending
>>>> on the pattern you want, as some take more work than others.
>>>>
>>>> Jason Nass
>>>> me at wargoth.com
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
>>>> [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Vida
>>>> Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2011 12:41 PM
>>>> To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
>>>> Subject: Re: [TheForge] need help on a project
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On 7/31/2011 11:08 AM, fudgumz at gmail.com wrote:
>>>>> I've been contracted to make a Ka-Bar knife. My question is what steel
>>>> should i use? I can order whatever i need. Also, does anyone know where
>>>> i
>>>> can get some quality damascus? And can anyone tell me whether a hamon
>>>> would
>>>> show on damascus?
>>>>> Matt Gallagher.
>>>>
>>>> Original KaBars were, IIRC, simple tool steel (1095?)
>>>>
>>>> The answer is that it depends on what is wanted in terms of a finished
>>>> product.  If you want something authentic, you stick with plain steel.
>>>> If stain resistance is important there are some CPM steels I hear to be
>>>> excellent without sacrificing other important qualities such as edge
>>>> holding
>>>> and toughness.
>>>>
>>>> Perhaps a little more information is in order.
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>>>
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>>
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