[TheForge] need help on a project OT:
peter fels
artgawk at thegrid.net
Thu Aug 4 18:02:05 EDT 2011
Hey Jerry;
On Aug 4, 2011, at 2:47 PM, Jerry Frost wrote:
> He'll be in Oregon soon. Phe might like a little time at Tilamook or maybe
> in theMyrtle forest. Lovely wood myrtle and the leaves make a wonderful
> break from Bay, they're both closely related.
The largest trees on our property are bay-laurel ( myrtle) and we are at the southern end of their natural range.
We also have Turkish bays that we planted.
My back surgery makes it real clear that i'm not traveling far at all for a while....and Phe is studying yet more Chinese and Tai-Che for her China trip in the fall...not to mention her upcoming ceramics show and several commissions..as well as making tiles for a pretty amazing kitchen floor.
>
> Oh heck, a little heat stop, mud and a torch aught to localize the heat to
> the edge. What fun's that though.
Mud! I always come back to mud.What other medium has been so useful for so very long?
> Jer
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "peter fels" <artgawk at thegrid.net>
> To: "Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 03, 2011 1:56 AM
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] need help on a project
>
>
>>
>> On Aug 2, 2011, at 3:02 PM, Jerry Frost wrote:
>>
>>> Heck Pete, Grant's just a mosey up the road from you.
>>
>> I think it's a long mosey...especially trying to talk Phe into driving me
>> that far.
>>
>>> Why not give an
>>> induction forge a try? He's got a spot heating implement and you can bend
>>> the tubing to almost any shape. It should be possible to heat only the
>>> edge
>>> without much hassle.
>> I watched him demo it a couple of conferences ago and drooled.
>>>
>>> Jer
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: "peter fels" <artgawk at thegrid.net>
>>> To: "Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>>> Sent: Monday, August 01, 2011 11:28 PM
>>> Subject: Re: [TheForge] need help on a project
>>>
>>>
>>>> For the application, an edge quench makes sense.
>>>>
>>>> But, just for discussion.....
>>>> I have a few old favorite knives that have been sharpened many times
>>>> over
>>>> the years,
>>>> so much so, that they are ground past the hardened edge and have become
>>>> too soft to keep an edge.
>>>> I've goofed around with work hardening the edge, with very modest
>>>> success.
>>>> Seems too much trouble to strip them, re-heat treat them and rehandle
>>>> them.
>>>> I've mused about wrapping the handle in a wet rag and re-edge hardening
>>>> them with a torch...Haven't tried yet.
>>>>
>>>> Last..grousing;
>>>> Our pleasant house sitter was very effective at dulling the kitchen
>>>> knives..presumably sawing her preferred veggies
>>>> on the stone countertop and the ceramic plates. Arrrrrrg!
>>>>
>>>> On Aug 1, 2011, at 1:18 PM, Ron Childers wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Logic would dictate if the customer said a "Ka-Bar" the military
>>>>> version
>>>>> is what he wants. These retail around $65....I agree on the edge
>>>>> quench...
>>>>>
>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>> From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
>>>>> [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
>>>>> blakkpawss at yahoo.com
>>>>> Sent: Monday, August 01, 2011 3:46 PM
>>>>> To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
>>>>> Subject: Re: [TheForge] need help on a project
>>>>>
>>>>> In a knife project like this, unless the buyer specifies a specific
>>>>> make
>>>>> of the Ka Bar or specifies the type of metal used, it's up to you. As
>>>>> such, pick a metal that will do what you want it to do. One that you
>>>>> know inside and out on working. Also look at what other knife makers,
>>>>> that are using that material, have to say about working it. Unless the
>>>>> knife is double edged or has a saw spine, then an edge quench is the
>>>>> way
>>>>> to go. This will also show a temper line (hamon) if it is finished to
>>>>> a
>>>>> degree where it shows(mirror or near mirror). However, normal wear and
>>>>> tear a knife go through will scratch up the surface and mask such a
>>>>> temper line.
>>>>> Sent from my BlackBerry(r) smartphone powered by Alltel
>>>>>
>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>> From: "Ron Childers" <ron at munlaw.net>
>>>>> Sender: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
>>>>> Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 15:33:46
>>>>> To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA<theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>>>>> Reply-To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
>>>>> <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>>>>> Subject: Re: [TheForge] need help on a project
>>>>>
>>>>> A Q&A article in "Blade" said 1095 was used in the original USMC knives
>>>>> in WWII, but it could also have been Camillus or another manufacturer.
>>>>> There are over 30 styles of Ka-Bar knives, some of which, including the
>>>>> newer USMC commemorative are 440-A Stainless. They list 1095, several
>>>>> types of ss, D-2, etc in the glossary but don't say the type of steel
>>>>> in
>>>>> every blade style.
>>>>>
>>>>> Legend has it that Ka-Bar,(Union Cutlery at the time) allegedly got its
>>>>> name from a letter sent by a fur trapper in the mid '20's who stated he
>>>>> shot a bear and wounded it then his gun jammed and he had to kill the
>>>>> attacking bear with his knife. The only readable letters at the bottom
>>>>> of the page were K a Bar. The officers of the company were so taken
>>>>> with
>>>>> this unsolicited testimonial the name was changed to "Ka-Bar".
>>>>>
>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>> From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
>>>>> [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jason Nass
>>>>> Sent: Monday, August 01, 2011 12:28 PM
>>>>> To: 'Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA'
>>>>> Subject: Re: [TheForge] need help on a project
>>>>>
>>>>> A good friend used to work for Ka-Bar, and at one point purchased
>>>>> several
>>>>> tons of drops at scrap price. The steel is 1085, not 1095. He was also
>>>>> kind
>>>>> enough to give me a small stash of the stuff he got, I use it with
>>>>> 15N20
>>>>> to
>>>>> make my pattern welded steels. I assume you want pattern welded
>>>>> Damascus,
>>>>> and not true Damascus steel, as there are to my knowledge only 2 guys
>>>>> in
>>>>> the
>>>>> world who have managed to make it in modern times... and I don't think
>>>>> that
>>>>> it is a 100% process to get the pattern to show. There are a ton of us
>>>>> pattern welding, and a ton of suppliers for raw billet. I will make
>>>>> billet
>>>>> to order, 3/16 x 1 (approximate) runs around $25-$35/ linear inch
>>>>> depending
>>>>> on the pattern you want, as some take more work than others.
>>>>>
>>>>> Jason Nass
>>>>> me at wargoth.com
>>>>>
>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>> From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
>>>>> [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Vida
>>>>> Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2011 12:41 PM
>>>>> To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
>>>>> Subject: Re: [TheForge] need help on a project
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On 7/31/2011 11:08 AM, fudgumz at gmail.com wrote:
>>>>>> I've been contracted to make a Ka-Bar knife. My question is what steel
>>>>> should i use? I can order whatever i need. Also, does anyone know where
>>>>> i
>>>>> can get some quality damascus? And can anyone tell me whether a hamon
>>>>> would
>>>>> show on damascus?
>>>>>> Matt Gallagher.
>>>>>
>>>>> Original KaBars were, IIRC, simple tool steel (1095?)
>>>>>
>>>>> The answer is that it depends on what is wanted in terms of a finished
>>>>> product. If you want something authentic, you stick with plain steel.
>>>>> If stain resistance is important there are some CPM steels I hear to be
>>>>> excellent without sacrificing other important qualities such as edge
>>>>> holding
>>>>> and toughness.
>>>>>
>>>>> Perhaps a little more information is in order.
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>>>>
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>>>>
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>>>
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>
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