[TheForge] need help on a project

Tue Aug 2 20:56:02 EDT 2011

On Aug 2, 2011, at 3:02 PM, Jerry Frost wrote:

> Heck Pete, Grant's just a mosey up the road from you.

I think it's a long mosey...especially trying to talk Phe into driving me that far.

> Why not give an 
> induction forge a try? He's got a spot heating implement and you can bend 
> the tubing to almost any shape. It should be possible to heat only the edge 
> without much hassle.
I watched him demo it a couple of conferences ago and drooled.
> 
> Jer
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "peter fels" <artgawk at thegrid.net>
> To: "Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> Sent: Monday, August 01, 2011 11:28 PM
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] need help on a project
> 
> 
>> For the application, an edge quench makes sense.
>> 
>> But, just for discussion.....
>> I have a few old favorite knives that have been sharpened many times over 
>> the years,
>> so much so, that they are ground past the hardened edge and have become 
>> too soft to keep an edge.
>> I've goofed around with work hardening the edge, with very modest success.
>> Seems too much trouble to strip them, re-heat treat them and rehandle 
>> them.
>> I've mused about wrapping the handle in a wet rag and re-edge hardening 
>> them with a torch...Haven't tried yet.
>> 
>> Last..grousing;
>> Our pleasant house sitter was very effective at dulling the kitchen 
>> knives..presumably sawing her preferred veggies
>> on the stone countertop and the ceramic plates.   Arrrrrrg!
>> 
>> On Aug 1, 2011, at 1:18 PM, Ron Childers wrote:
>> 
>>> Logic would dictate if the customer said a "Ka-Bar" the military version
>>> is what he wants. These retail around $65....I agree on the edge
>>> quench...
>>> 
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
>>> [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
>>> blakkpawss at yahoo.com
>>> Sent: Monday, August 01, 2011 3:46 PM
>>> To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
>>> Subject: Re: [TheForge] need help on a project
>>> 
>>> In a knife project like this, unless the buyer specifies a specific make
>>> of the Ka Bar or specifies the type of metal used, it's up to you.  As
>>> such, pick a metal that will do what you want it to do.  One that you
>>> know inside and out on working.  Also look at what other knife makers,
>>> that are using that material, have to say about working it.  Unless the
>>> knife is double edged or has a saw spine, then an edge quench is the way
>>> to go.  This will also show a temper line (hamon) if it is finished to a
>>> degree where it shows(mirror or near mirror).  However, normal wear and
>>> tear a knife go through will scratch up the surface and mask such a
>>> temper line.
>>> Sent from my BlackBerry(r) smartphone powered by Alltel
>>> 
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: "Ron Childers" <ron at munlaw.net>
>>> Sender: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
>>> Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 15:33:46
>>> To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA<theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>>> Reply-To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
>>> <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>>> Subject: Re: [TheForge] need help on a project
>>> 
>>> A Q&A article in "Blade" said 1095 was used in the original USMC knives
>>> in WWII, but it could also have been Camillus or another manufacturer.
>>> There are over 30 styles of Ka-Bar knives, some of which, including the
>>> newer USMC commemorative are 440-A Stainless. They list 1095, several
>>> types of ss, D-2, etc in the glossary but don't say the type of steel in
>>> every blade style.
>>> 
>>> Legend has it that Ka-Bar,(Union Cutlery at the time) allegedly got its
>>> name from a letter sent by a fur trapper in the mid '20's who stated he
>>> shot a bear and wounded it then his gun jammed and he had to kill the
>>> attacking bear with his knife. The only readable letters at the bottom
>>> of the page were K a Bar. The officers of the company were so taken with
>>> this unsolicited testimonial the name was changed to "Ka-Bar".
>>> 
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
>>> [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jason Nass
>>> Sent: Monday, August 01, 2011 12:28 PM
>>> To: 'Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA'
>>> Subject: Re: [TheForge] need help on a project
>>> 
>>> A good friend used to work for Ka-Bar, and at one point purchased
>>> several
>>> tons of drops at scrap price. The steel is 1085, not 1095. He was also
>>> kind
>>> enough to give me a small stash of the stuff he got, I use it with 15N20
>>> to
>>> make my pattern welded steels. I assume you  want pattern welded
>>> Damascus,
>>> and not true Damascus steel, as there are to my knowledge only 2 guys in
>>> the
>>> world who have managed to make it in modern times... and I don't think
>>> that
>>> it is a 100% process to get the pattern to show. There are a ton of us
>>> pattern welding, and a ton of suppliers for raw billet. I will make
>>> billet
>>> to order, 3/16 x 1 (approximate) runs around $25-$35/ linear inch
>>> depending
>>> on the pattern you want, as some take more work than others.
>>> 
>>> Jason Nass
>>> me at wargoth.com
>>> 
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
>>> [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Vida
>>> Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2011 12:41 PM
>>> To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
>>> Subject: Re: [TheForge] need help on a project
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On 7/31/2011 11:08 AM, fudgumz at gmail.com wrote:
>>>> I've been contracted to make a Ka-Bar knife. My question is what steel
>>> should i use? I can order whatever i need. Also, does anyone know where
>>> i
>>> can get some quality damascus? And can anyone tell me whether a hamon
>>> would
>>> show on damascus?
>>>> Matt Gallagher.
>>> 
>>> Original KaBars were, IIRC, simple tool steel (1095?)
>>> 
>>> The answer is that it depends on what is wanted in terms of a finished
>>> product.  If you want something authentic, you stick with plain steel.
>>> If stain resistance is important there are some CPM steels I hear to be
>>> excellent without sacrificing other important qualities such as edge
>>> holding
>>> and toughness.
>>> 
>>> Perhaps a little more information is in order.
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>> 
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> 
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