[TheForge] metalworking question- soldering brass

[Peter Fels & Phoebe Palmer]

Silflos and the like are coppery colored solders.

Paul wrote:
> On 1/20/2010 2:56 PM, Andy Gladish wrote:
>> Thanks so much, this is exactly the info I need.
>> Any recommendations for a suitable solder?
>> Also, what about preparation? Using jewelry solder, I've always cleaned
>> with an acid bath- would filing and flux be suitable?
>> It's not so much perfect preservation of the patina, more that we don't
>> want to get into having to polish the entire length because of a joint
>> needing to be filed/sanded smooth.
>> <snip>
>>    
> Another possibility if the purpose of the joint is more cosmetic than 
> structural is to use a soft solder. The new plumbing solders are non 
> lead based, with mostly tin, antimony and a few percent of silver. They 
> can use water soluble fluxes that clean up well. If the ends are cut 
> perfectly as you describe, you would first 'tin' them after cleaning and 
> cutting, you only need soap and water and isopropol alcohol to clean, 
> followed by a light mechanical cleaning with 600 wet or dry supported 
> with a flat piece of glass to keep the edges crisp. Once the ends are 
> tinned align them and heat to the flow point, about 500 deg F or so, and 
> when the parts heat sufficiently they can be drawn together the last few 
> thousandths of an inch. The low temp and the lack of acid flux may 
> preserve the patina. I have used a copper sulfate solution with sulfuric 
> acid to 'plate' the solder on foiled stained glass projects... it might 
> blend in well with a joint that is measured in thousands of an inch. I 
> have not used the copper patina on the new solders, only on 50/50... so 
> test it first to see what you get.
>