[TheForge] metalworking question- soldering brass

[Jerry Frost]

Don't braze, use Phos cop solder for a closer color match. Heck, they may 
even make one that's a good match for brass.

Preserving the patina could be a hitch for sure, I think I'd try restoring 
it on some scrap and see if patina restoration is possible.

To be up front I don't do much brass, bronze or copper work so I'm just 
tossing ideas, not tricks I know.

I'm with you on the PITA thought. Besides liking a good challenge I've 
discovered that being able to do things other folk can't means you get to 
name your price. Feels good too. <wink>
Frosty the Lucky
-------------------------
If it ain't forged
It ain't real
wrought iron is
The Frostworks



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Andy Gladish" <gladish at cablerocket.com>
To: "Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 2:35 PM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] metalworking question- soldering brass


> Thanks, Paul, I never thought of using that approach with plumbing solder.
> Used to do that when fabricating silver all the time. Problem is going to
> be getting the joints that tight...wish I could find something that I
> could flow into the joint using TIG- 1 1/2" nom. brass pipe takes a LOT of
> torch to get to brazing temp, especially if I'm doing the whole joint at
> once.
>
> On Wed, 20 Jan 2010 15:16:21 -0800, Paul <forge at wi.rr.com> wrote:
>
>
>> Another possibility if the purpose of the joint is more cosmetic than
>> structural is to use a soft solder. The new plumbing solders are non
>> lead based, with mostly tin, antimony and a few percent of silver. They
>> can use water soluble fluxes that clean up well. If the ends are cut
>> perfectly as you describe, you would first 'tin' them after cleaning and
>> cutting
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