[TheForge] Repair job

[Grover.Richardson at gtri.gatech.edu]

Stone can be touchy, particularly old and/or abused.  I would worry
about the slide hammer.  A push may not offend it, but a bump may crack
it.

Drilling out the lead on most sides, wiggling the iron with vise grips
and pulling would be the way that I would go.

Do you have insurance in case you DO break the stone?

-----Original Message-----
From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ron Childers
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 10:35 AM
To: 'Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA'
Subject: RE: [TheForge] Repair job

At what temperature does granite spall or discolor? Is there room to
drill
out the lead, repair the scrapers and re-pour the lead? Without looking
at
it, that seems the safest way to accomplish the job. 
Ron C

-----Original Message-----
From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of dan tull
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 10:09 AM
To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Repair job

Torch?
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Peter Hirst" <saltydog335 at aol.com>
To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 8:08 AM
Subject: [TheForge] Repair job


I have been asked to repair a pair of antique boot scrapers that an
idiot 
contractor damaged in a sill replacement job.  1719 house with the
matched 
pair nicely leaded into the granite front step.  In replacing the sill, 
idiot (or worse) contractor cut the boot scrapers off (not quite flush) 
rather than move the step.  I need to remove the nubs, reweld them to
the 
scrapers and reinstall.  Anyone have any experience with R&R of
lead-mounted

iron in stone?  I have thought of three ways to do the extraction of the

remaining nubs:  (1) vise grips and slide hammer (preferred), (2) stud 
extractor and slide hammer ( would rather avoid drilling out the
original 
nubs); (3) heat (prefer not to destroy the original lead or risk
cracking 
the stone: they are 3 inches from the edge.

Also, the weld itself seems tricky.   I am inclined to use gas to
reattach 
the nubs:  They must be butt welded and SOLID to retain shape and
structural

integrity.  Forge weld seems dicey considering the weld is at the point
that

gets nearly all the stress in use.  Is pure iron filler rod avaialble,
or am

I ok with ordinary mild steel rod?  One of the scrolls needs to be
replaced,

but I am ok with a forge weld for that, since its a faggot weld along
about 
a 3" surface.

Any advice  welcomed.  I can post pics if there is interest in this
project.

Keziah
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