[TheForge] Mineral Wool

[Steven Smith]

I had in mind something that should be pretty accurate: measure a forge 
before and after ITC100 (or whatever). I honestly didn't notice much 
difference the one time I tried ITC100. I'd like to see some numbers, 
but lack the motivation to do it myself.

Steve

Kathy wrote:
> Steve Writes:
> "I do wish someone would measure before and after with ITC100. So far, 
> all I've heard is anecdotal "it was hotter"."
>
> Any comment more than an anecdotal example is not going to be practical,
> considering all the variables, including but not limited to:
> Forge design and size
> Insulating products used
> Burner design, construction methods, & size used
> And finally gas input pressure employed.
>
> Typical improvements, all other factors being equal are:
> >From red to red-orange heat as seen inside forge
> >From red-orange to pumpkin orange
> >From pumpkin to orange-yellow
> >From orange-yellow to lemon-yellow
>
> With water separation to create colloidal zirconia before application of
> reflective layer; a forge capable of going to lemon yellow will then reach
> yellow-white. If a really hot burner design is then turned up, the forge
> interior turns almost pure white, and its ceramic blanket will suffer immediate
> damage. If yellow-white heat is maintained for more than a few minuets the
> blanket will suffer the same amount of damage.
>
> What damage? Large chunks of the coated ceramic blanket will peel away from the
> insulation and will be blown out the exhaust or found on the forge floor upon
> cool down; this is caused by shrinkage of the underlying blanket below the
> coating layer. Even rigidizing will only delay such damage should a forge is
> taken to heats over those the ceramic blanket is rated for.
> Mikey   
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net]
> On Behalf Of Steven Smith
> Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2007 7:10 AM
> To: Sponsored by ABANA
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Mineral Wool
>
> Both Kaowool and Durablanket are brand names. Within each brand name are 
> different products designed to work at different temperatures. You will 
> be unhappy if you get an inexpensive, low temperature wool. I use 
> Durablanket "S".
>
> I agree with Bruce's recommendation of 2" thick, 8 pounds per cubic foot 
> density. The denser stuff lasts better against mechanical damage. You 
> also should put a seal coat on the inside of your forge. You make up a 
> sort of mud and paint it on. I use Satanite. More expensive options that 
> reflect IR and improve the efficiency of your forge include ITC100.
>
> I do wish someone would measure before and after with ITC100. So far, 
> all I've heard is anecdotal "it was hotter".
>
> Steve
>
> Jerry Smith wrote:
>   
>> Folks,
>>
>> I need a number or a name or something for model or
>> brand of mineral wool, I need to buy some mineral wool
>> for rebuilding my forge and to build a new furnace for
>> melting glass.
>>
>> I am using Frosty's design for the burner, it works
>> great for me.
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Jerry
>>
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