[TheForge] Mineral Wool

[Kathy]

It would certainly be useful if the five people all built their burners and
forges in the same blacksmith workshop class; otherwise, not really.

Mikey

-----Original Message-----
From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net]
On Behalf Of Jeffrey Polaski
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2007 1:16 PM
To: Sponsored by ABANA
Subject: RE: [TheForge] Mineral Wool

>Any comment more than an anecdotal example is not going to be
practical,
>considering all the variables, including but not limited to:
>Forge design and size
>Insulating products used
>Burner design, construction methods, & size used
>And finally gas input pressure employed.
Not to be difficult, but it's still be useful if five or so people could
give a temperature and conditions report. It could be that
ITC-100/Plistix raises the measured temp by, say 10% - 20%, without
regard to the exact design of the forge. Most of the time people can
estimate how much propane per hour their forge is using, etc... I don't
think that anyone is looking for absolute scientific proof, just that
it's a reasonable bet. 

I'd love to make some measurements myself, but I don't have any way to
accurately measure temperature above 700 degrees or so.




Jeff Polaski

-----Original Message-----
From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Kathy
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2007 12:11 PM
To: 'Sponsored by ABANA'
Subject: RE: [TheForge] Mineral Wool

Steve Writes:
"I do wish someone would measure before and after with ITC100. So far, 
all I've heard is anecdotal "it was hotter"."

Any comment more than an anecdotal example is not going to be practical,
considering all the variables, including but not limited to:
Forge design and size
Insulating products used
Burner design, construction methods, & size used
And finally gas input pressure employed.

Typical improvements, all other factors being equal are:
>From red to red-orange heat as seen inside forge
>From red-orange to pumpkin orange
>From pumpkin to orange-yellow
>From orange-yellow to lemon-yellow

With water separation to create colloidal zirconia before application of
reflective layer; a forge capable of going to lemon yellow will then
reach
yellow-white. If a really hot burner design is then turned up, the forge
interior turns almost pure white, and its ceramic blanket will suffer
immediate
damage. If yellow-white heat is maintained for more than a few minuets
the
blanket will suffer the same amount of damage.

What damage? Large chunks of the coated ceramic blanket will peel away
from the
insulation and will be blown out the exhaust or found on the forge floor
upon
cool down; this is caused by shrinkage of the underlying blanket below
the
coating layer. Even rigidizing will only delay such damage should a
forge is
taken to heats over those the ceramic blanket is rated for.
Mikey   


-----Original Message-----
From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net]
On Behalf Of Steven Smith
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2007 7:10 AM
To: Sponsored by ABANA
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Mineral Wool

Both Kaowool and Durablanket are brand names. Within each brand name are

different products designed to work at different temperatures. You will 
be unhappy if you get an inexpensive, low temperature wool. I use 
Durablanket "S".

I agree with Bruce's recommendation of 2" thick, 8 pounds per cubic foot

density. The denser stuff lasts better against mechanical damage. You 
also should put a seal coat on the inside of your forge. You make up a 
sort of mud and paint it on. I use Satanite. More expensive options that

reflect IR and improve the efficiency of your forge include ITC100.

I do wish someone would measure before and after with ITC100. So far, 
all I've heard is anecdotal "it was hotter".

Steve

Jerry Smith wrote:
> Folks,
>
> I need a number or a name or something for model or
> brand of mineral wool, I need to buy some mineral wool
> for rebuilding my forge and to build a new furnace for
> melting glass.
>
> I am using Frosty's design for the burner, it works
> great for me.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jerry
>
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