[TheForge] Mineral Wool & satinite vs IT?C-100, etc
Kathy
keporter at comcast.net
Thu May 24 21:17:29 EDT 2007
There are a couple of people on this group who sell ITC #100, but they are both
shy about pushing their products. SPEAK UP GUYS, OR I WILL HAVE TO "OUT YOU."
Mikey
-----Original Message-----
From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net]
On Behalf Of Jerry Smith
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2007 12:33 PM
To: Sponsored by ABANA
Subject: RE: [TheForge] Mineral Wool & satinite vs IT?C-100, etc
Anyone have some ITC or similar stuff for sale or know
where I can get some?
Thanks,
Jerry
--- Kathy <keporter at comcast.net> wrote:
> For use on ceramic blanket, dab Rigidizer (colloidal
> silica) on with a cheap
> paint brush, allowing it to sink in to a depth of
> between 1/4 and 1/2, in
> order to create a semi rigid under layernot given
> to shrinking due to heat
> exposureon the inner face (hot face side) of a
> ceramic blanket; after heat
> curing, paint a coating of Plistex (ordered from
> Larry Zoeller) in order to
> create a very tough finish layer; after heat curing
> the Plistex, paint on a
> final coating of water separated ITC-100 or a
> combination of water separated
> (colloidal) #200 mesh zirconium and a dab of water
> separated clay (as a binder).
> The above combination gives the toughest, and most
> infrared reflective finish
> presently possible for hobby use ceramic refractory
> blanket insulation.
>
>
>
> However, it is silly to use ceramic blanket unless
> the forge is either going to
> be transported a lot, or needs to cool down at
> maximum speed (twenty minuets to
> less than 140° F from yellow heat); as in the case
> of a home hobbyist worried
> over safety issues and with limited time (husbands
> and fathers). Otherwise, an
> extra five minuets heat up period (but up to four
> hours cool down time) will
> allow the use of an insulating refractory like
> Kastolite #3000. A good quality
> insulating refractory will hold up far better than
> the toughest and most
> carefully prepared ceramic blanket insulation on
> shop forges (still
> transportable, but heavier).
>
> Mikey
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net]
> On Behalf Of Ron Childers
> Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2007 7:33 AM
> To: 'Sponsored by ABANA'
> Subject: RE: [TheForge] Mineral Wool & satinite vs
> IT?C-100, etc
>
>
>
> Kaowool seems to work ok; I guess Plistex or ITC-100
> could be applied over
>
> satinite if it would be of appreciable benefit...?
>
>
>
> Ron C
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
>
> [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf
> Of Steven Smith
>
> Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2007 10:10 AM
>
> To: Sponsored by ABANA
>
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Mineral Wool
>
>
>
> Both Kaowool and Durablanket are brand names. Within
> each brand name are
>
> different products designed to work at different
> temperatures. You will
>
> be unhappy if you get an inexpensive, low
> temperature wool. I use
>
> Durablanket "S".
>
>
>
> I agree with Bruce's recommendation of 2" thick, 8
> pounds per cubic foot
>
> density. The denser stuff lasts better against
> mechanical damage. You
>
> also should put a seal coat on the inside of your
> forge. You make up a
>
> sort of mud and paint it on. I use Satanite. More
> expensive options that
>
> reflect IR and improve the efficiency of your forge
> include ITC100.
>
>
>
> I do wish someone would measure before and after
> with ITC100. So far,
>
> all I've heard is anecdotal "it was hotter".
>
>
>
> Steve
>
>
>
> Jerry Smith wrote:
>
> > Folks,
>
> >
>
> > I need a number or a name or something for model
> or
>
> > brand of mineral wool, I need to buy some mineral
> wool
>
> > for rebuilding my forge and to build a new furnace
> for
>
> > melting glass.
>
> >
>
> > I am using Frosty's design for the burner, it
> works
>
> > great for me.
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Thanks,
>
> >
>
> > Jerry
>
> >
>
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