[TheForge] Mineral Wool

[Kathy]

Steve Writes:
"I do wish someone would measure before and after with ITC100. So far, 
all I've heard is anecdotal "it was hotter"."

Any comment more than an anecdotal example is not going to be practical,
considering all the variables, including but not limited to:
Forge design and size
Insulating products used
Burner design, construction methods, & size used
And finally gas input pressure employed.

Typical improvements, all other factors being equal are:
>From red to red-orange heat as seen inside forge
>From red-orange to pumpkin orange
>From pumpkin to orange-yellow
>From orange-yellow to lemon-yellow

With water separation to create colloidal zirconia before application of
reflective layer; a forge capable of going to lemon yellow will then reach
yellow-white. If a really hot burner design is then turned up, the forge
interior turns almost pure white, and its ceramic blanket will suffer immediate
damage. If yellow-white heat is maintained for more than a few minuets the
blanket will suffer the same amount of damage.

What damage? Large chunks of the coated ceramic blanket will peel away from the
insulation and will be blown out the exhaust or found on the forge floor upon
cool down; this is caused by shrinkage of the underlying blanket below the
coating layer. Even rigidizing will only delay such damage should a forge is
taken to heats over those the ceramic blanket is rated for.
Mikey   


-----Original Message-----
From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net]
On Behalf Of Steven Smith
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2007 7:10 AM
To: Sponsored by ABANA
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Mineral Wool

Both Kaowool and Durablanket are brand names. Within each brand name are 
different products designed to work at different temperatures. You will 
be unhappy if you get an inexpensive, low temperature wool. I use 
Durablanket "S".

I agree with Bruce's recommendation of 2" thick, 8 pounds per cubic foot 
density. The denser stuff lasts better against mechanical damage. You 
also should put a seal coat on the inside of your forge. You make up a 
sort of mud and paint it on. I use Satanite. More expensive options that 
reflect IR and improve the efficiency of your forge include ITC100.

I do wish someone would measure before and after with ITC100. So far, 
all I've heard is anecdotal "it was hotter".

Steve

Jerry Smith wrote:
> Folks,
>
> I need a number or a name or something for model or
> brand of mineral wool, I need to buy some mineral wool
> for rebuilding my forge and to build a new furnace for
> melting glass.
>
> I am using Frosty's design for the burner, it works
> great for me.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jerry
>
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