[TheForge] Re: Kaowool

[marc3rd]

I have a pipe forge too. I used 2 thickness of 1" kaowool, put the joint at
the bottom placed 1" x 4" x 8" hard fire brick on the bottom with some
chunks of fire brick as a spacer to keep it from completely crushing the
wool and it has lasted for over 5 -8  years. I have to redo it this year.
Simple but it seems to have held up well.
Marc
Marc of the Hammer Forge
WWW.Marc3rd.com

"It's not about the light you reflect. It's about the light you radiate!" M3
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike Porter" <michael.a.porter at comcast.net>
To: "'Sponsored by ABANA'" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 12:11 PM
Subject: RE: [TheForge] Re: Kaowool


> If someone were building a tube forge and was unable to find kiln
shelving,
> it would be bubble alumina refractory castable they should use to build
the
> floor (about 3/4" thick and poured over built up layers of ceramic fiber
> board). If they are able to run with an idea sans instructions, bubble
> alumina should be their first choice--not kiln shelving. You can order
small
> amounts of bubble alumina refractory for little more money and bother then
> most people have finding high alumina kiln shelving, and since it can be
> conveniently shaped. Ellis Custom Knifeworks sells small amounts of bubble
> alumina refractory at reasonable prices:
> Refractory.EllisCustomKnifeworks.com
> Mikey
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Freeman
> Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 4:25 AM
> To: theforge at mailman.qth.net
> Subject: RE: [TheForge] Re: Kaowool
>
> The only reason I know of for keeping any hot chamber running continuously
> is that the refractory lining takes so long to reach temperature that it
> accounts for a major use of fuel.  This is even true for a blast furnace.
>
> If we had a perfect insulator with very low thermal mass, then we could
turn
> on and off a forge in minutes.
>
> Needless to say, I vote for Kaowool.
>
> BTW, I consider the hazards folks attribute to Kaowool to be overstated.
> But that's another issue.
>
> Bruce
> NJ
>
> >>> jeff.polaski at rgs.uci.edu 4/14/2006 1:03:51 PM >>>
> > Demon Buddha [osan at netlabs.net]:
> > I would look at it this way: if you are maintaining heat for
> long
> >periods (days or even weeks at a time, or more) then refractory is the
>
> >way to go, particularly because it is far more durable than wools.  If
>
> >you heat a few hours a day and you are not too hard on the interior
> >surfaces, wool sis great, especially when you seal it up with material
>
> >such as ITC100.
> Yes, I don't doubt that refractory has its place. I just don't know (or
even
> know *of*) any blacksmiths who keep their forge running continuously for
> days/weeks at a time. I don't know, but maybe glassblowers do?
>
> For whoever else might be making a propane forge, I'd like to add to my
> previous comment:
>
>     Also, if you're using a propane forge and you put
>     in firebricks (for the floor), use the lighter
>     "insulating" ones, rather than the heavy-duty
>     ones. I switched from insulating bricks to
>     heavy-duty bricks, and it added about 30 minutes
>     to the time my forge takes to get really hot.
>
> I should have added that lighter bricks will get eaten away by welding
flux
> much more easily, so heavier bricks still have their place. If you're
*not*
> doing any forge welding, then light bricks are the way to go. If you are
> doing forge welding, then I think the best solution is to put a thick
layer
> of castable refractory (1/2"--1" thick) over the floor of your forge. Or,
if
> you can find it, a piece of ceramic shelf material.
>
>
> Jeff Polaski
>
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