[TheForge] Re: Kaowool

[Mike Porter]

If someone were building a tube forge and was unable to find kiln shelving,
it would be bubble alumina refractory castable they should use to build the
floor (about 3/4" thick and poured over built up layers of ceramic fiber
board). If they are able to run with an idea sans instructions, bubble
alumina should be their first choice--not kiln shelving. You can order small
amounts of bubble alumina refractory for little more money and bother then
most people have finding high alumina kiln shelving, and since it can be
conveniently shaped. Ellis Custom Knifeworks sells small amounts of bubble
alumina refractory at reasonable prices:
Refractory.EllisCustomKnifeworks.com 
Mikey
  
-----Original Message-----
From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Freeman
Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 4:25 AM
To: theforge at mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [TheForge] Re: Kaowool

The only reason I know of for keeping any hot chamber running continuously
is that the refractory lining takes so long to reach temperature that it
accounts for a major use of fuel.  This is even true for a blast furnace.

If we had a perfect insulator with very low thermal mass, then we could turn
on and off a forge in minutes.

Needless to say, I vote for Kaowool.

BTW, I consider the hazards folks attribute to Kaowool to be overstated.
But that's another issue.

Bruce
NJ

>>> jeff.polaski at rgs.uci.edu 4/14/2006 1:03:51 PM >>>
> Demon Buddha [osan at netlabs.net]: 
>	I would look at it this way: if you are maintaining heat for
long 
>periods (days or even weeks at a time, or more) then refractory is the

>way to go, particularly because it is far more durable than wools.  If

>you heat a few hours a day and you are not too hard on the interior 
>surfaces, wool sis great, especially when you seal it up with material

>such as ITC100.
Yes, I don't doubt that refractory has its place. I just don't know (or even
know *of*) any blacksmiths who keep their forge running continuously for
days/weeks at a time. I don't know, but maybe glassblowers do? 

For whoever else might be making a propane forge, I'd like to add to my
previous comment:

    Also, if you're using a propane forge and you put
    in firebricks (for the floor), use the lighter
    "insulating" ones, rather than the heavy-duty
    ones. I switched from insulating bricks to
    heavy-duty bricks, and it added about 30 minutes
    to the time my forge takes to get really hot.

I should have added that lighter bricks will get eaten away by welding flux
much more easily, so heavier bricks still have their place. If you're *not*
doing any forge welding, then light bricks are the way to go. If you are
doing forge welding, then I think the best solution is to put a thick layer
of castable refractory (1/2"--1" thick) over the floor of your forge. Or, if
you can find it, a piece of ceramic shelf material.


Jeff Polaski

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