[TheForge] Re: Kaowool

Tue Apr 18 08:15:36 EDT 2006

OK, once again I am doing things different<G>.  I don't use fire brick.  I
use regular brick outside the forge.  The regular brick are set high enough
so that when my iron lays across them they are above the forge bottom.
Regular brick are cheap, easy to find, and are outside the forge so don't
get a lot of heat<G>.

In addition, by having the metal above the forge bottom (or forge brick)
they are heated from all sides.

Woof (I bark better than most dogs)

>*>-----Original Message-----
>*>From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net 
>*>[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of marc3rd
>*>Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 7:02 PM
>*>To: Sponsored by ABANA
>*>Subject: Re: [TheForge] Re: Kaowool
>*>
>*>
>*>I have a pipe forge too. I used 2 thickness of 1" kaowool, 
>*>put the joint at the bottom placed 1" x 4" x 8" hard fire 
>*>brick on the bottom with some chunks of fire brick as a 
>*>spacer to keep it from completely crushing the wool and it 
>*>has lasted for over 5 -8  years. I have to redo it this 
>*>year. Simple but it seems to have held up well. Marc Marc of 
>*>the Hammer Forge WWW.Marc3rd.com
>*>
>*>"It's not about the light you reflect. It's about the light 
>*>you radiate!" M3
>*>----- Original Message ----- 
>*>From: "Mike Porter" <michael.a.porter at comcast.net>
>*>To: "'Sponsored by ABANA'" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>*>Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 12:11 PM
>*>Subject: RE: [TheForge] Re: Kaowool
>*>
>*>
>*>> If someone were building a tube forge and was unable to find kiln
>*>shelving,
>*>> it would be bubble alumina refractory castable they should use to 
>*>> build
>*>the
>*>> floor (about 3/4" thick and poured over built up layers of ceramic 
>*>> fiber board). If they are able to run with an idea sans 
>*>instructions, 
>*>> bubble alumina should be their first choice--not kiln 
>*>shelving. You 
>*>> can order
>*>small
>*>> amounts of bubble alumina refractory for little more money 
>*>and bother 
>*>> then most people have finding high alumina kiln shelving, 
>*>and since it 
>*>> can be conveniently shaped. Ellis Custom Knifeworks sells small 
>*>> amounts of bubble alumina refractory at reasonable prices: 
>*>> Refractory.EllisCustomKnifeworks.com
>*>> Mikey
>*>>
>*>> -----Original Message-----
>*>> From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net 
>*>> [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of 
>*>Bruce Freeman
>*>> Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 4:25 AM
>*>> To: theforge at mailman.qth.net
>*>> Subject: RE: [TheForge] Re: Kaowool
>*>>
>*>> The only reason I know of for keeping any hot chamber running 
>*>> continuously is that the refractory lining takes so long to reach 
>*>> temperature that it accounts for a major use of fuel.  
>*>This is even 
>*>> true for a blast furnace.
>*>>
>*>> If we had a perfect insulator with very low thermal mass, then we 
>*>> could
>*>turn
>*>> on and off a forge in minutes.
>*>>
>*>> Needless to say, I vote for Kaowool.
>*>>
>*>> BTW, I consider the hazards folks attribute to Kaowool to be 
>*>> overstated. But that's another issue.
>*>>
>*>> Bruce
>*>> NJ
>*>>
>*>> >>> jeff.polaski at rgs.uci.edu 4/14/2006 1:03:51 PM >>>
>*>> > Demon Buddha [osan at netlabs.net]:
>*>> > I would look at it this way: if you are maintaining heat for
>*>> long
>*>> >periods (days or even weeks at a time, or more) then 
>*>refractory is 
>*>> >the
>*>>
>*>> >way to go, particularly because it is far more durable 
>*>than wools.  
>*>> >If
>*>>
>*>> >you heat a few hours a day and you are not too hard on 
>*>the interior 
>*>> >surfaces, wool sis great, especially when you seal it up with 
>*>> >material
>*>>
>*>> >such as ITC100.
>*>> Yes, I don't doubt that refractory has its place. I just 
>*>don't know 
>*>> (or
>*>even
>*>> know *of*) any blacksmiths who keep their forge running 
>*>continuously 
>*>> for days/weeks at a time. I don't know, but maybe glassblowers do?
>*>>
>*>> For whoever else might be making a propane forge, I'd like 
>*>to add to 
>*>> my previous comment:
>*>>
>*>>     Also, if you're using a propane forge and you put
>*>>     in firebricks (for the floor), use the lighter
>*>>     "insulating" ones, rather than the heavy-duty
>*>>     ones. I switched from insulating bricks to
>*>>     heavy-duty bricks, and it added about 30 minutes
>*>>     to the time my forge takes to get really hot.
>*>>
>*>> I should have added that lighter bricks will get eaten 
>*>away by welding
>*>flux
>*>> much more easily, so heavier bricks still have their 
>*>place. If you're
>*>*not*
>*>> doing any forge welding, then light bricks are the way to 
>*>go. If you 
>*>> are doing forge welding, then I think the best solution is 
>*>to put a 
>*>> thick
>*>layer
>*>> of castable refractory (1/2"--1" thick) over the floor of 
>*>your forge. 
>*>> Or,
>*>if
>*>> you can find it, a piece of ceramic shelf material.
>*>>
>*>>
>*>> Jeff Polaski
>*>>
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