[TheForge] Re: brill dit stock (grrr)
Ralph Sproul
brhlbsmt at mcttelecom.com
Thu Jun 2 12:11:43 EDT 2005
Thanks Chuck
Ralph
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck Robinson" <robi5515 at bellsouth.net>
To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2005 9:53 AM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Re: brill dit stock (grrr)
> Hey Ralph,
> The author said that just about any rod that is small enough to establish
an
> arc in the hole and weld to the nut without making too large a deposit
will
> work.
> He likes the stainless because it strikes an arc easier and welds at a
lower
> heat.
> He said the L stands for low carbon. The correct rod # is 308L-16.
> I find the stainless rod welds easier to most steels; especially alloy
> steels ,and with-stands impact better.
> I got a can of 316 1/16" rod and find it works well
> Chuck
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ralph Sproul" <brhlbsmt at mcttelecom.com>
> To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2005 5:18 AM
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Re: brill dit stock (grrr)
>
>
> > Hi Chuck, did the article mention any reason in particular to use a
> > stainless rod? I'm curious on that one - cuz I've always used 7018.
> >
> > 308L is just low carbon stainless, but what is the 16L? Or are they
> > suggesting going from low carbon 308 to 316 SS?
> >
> > (maybe it has something to do with welding strength to the alloys in
> > M2?) -
> > which would be nice to know.
> >
> > Ralph
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Chuck Robinson" <robi5515 at bellsouth.net>
> > To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> > Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2005 9:18 PM
> > Subject: Re: [TheForge] Re: brill dit stock (grrr)
> >
> >
> >> Hey Justin,
> >> I just found the article in the Home Shop Machinist March/April 2004
> >> bout
> >> removing broken taps and studs.
> >> Basically if the tap or stud is close to flush with the surface place
> >> the
> >> next smaller size nut centered over the hole, reach down with a 1/16"
> >> 308L-L16 rod at 65 amps DCEP and weld the stud to the nut
> >> It might take a few tries.
> >> If the stud/tap is broken further down in the hole, take a next size
down
> >> bolt, long enough to touch the stud/tap, center drill a hole in
it -large
> >> enough for the rod to reach the offending part and weld the bolt to it.
> >> I also found that a few squirts of Sili-Kroil penetrant really helps.
> >> when
> >> backing out the bolt.
> >> Chuck
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: "Justin Fellenz" <sunironworks at yahoo.com>
> >> To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> >> Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2005 6:54 PM
> >> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Re: brill dit stock (grrr)
> >>
> >>
> >> > Roger,
> >> >
> >> > Please share how you got that stud out. A stud just twisted off below
> >> > grade in an aluminum intake manifold I'm working on, so I drilled a
> >> > lovely, perfectly centered hole in the stud and decided--foolish
me--to
> >> > try my handy-dandy blue-point screw extractor set, which broke off in
> >> > the *%)#$(#+ hole. So now I have high-carbon steel in a soft steel
> >> > cylinder in aluminum, flush. I can get the broken end of the
extractor
> >> > good and red without the aluminum disappearing on me, but obviously
> >> > cant go hotter. I was hoping that I could anneal the extractor by
> >> > keeping the surrounding aluminum warm and then I figgered I'd try my
> >> > own idea of heating the durn thing up and then drilling. The heat
runs
> >> > away so fast I ended up drilling while torching and the drill got red
> >> > real fast. Maybe thats the answer though. I'm kind of at an impasse.
> >> >
> >> > Oh, this is a manifold off an old military truck, not the kind of
thing
> >> > I want to wreck and have to replace. Goes without saying I suppose.
> >> >
> >> > So...howd'ja do it?
> >> >
> >> > Thanks,
> >> >
> >> > Justin.
> >> >
> >> > --- Roger Olsen <erik at methow.com> wrote:
> >> >
> >> >> Hi Ralph,
> >> >>
> >> >> Thank you for the offer to send over a stick of Stud Plus but I have
> >> >> no need at
> >> >> this time. I solverd my immediatee problem thru stubborness and the
> >> >> sacrifice
> >> >> of other bits. I will definitly keep the Stud Plus in mind and when
> >> >> next at
> >> >> the welding supply by a stick or two. I had never heard of it
> >> >> before.
> >> >>
> >> >> I sure appreciate all this exchange of information and offers of
> >> >> help.
> >> >>
> >> >> Thanks,
> >> >>
> >> >> Roger
> >> >> _________________________
> >> >>
> >> >> Ralph Sproul wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> > Larry has a good point on this one if the tap is only down about
> >> >> 1/8 of an
> >> >> > inch. This rod is called Stud plus by Allstates repair rods. I
> >> >> have
> >> >> > purchased and used two packages of this rod for removal of broken
> >> >> studs and
> >> >> > bolts from flywheels, dampers, castings, etc.
> >> >> >
> >> >> > I've found the rod does what Larry says and stays to the center if
> >> >> your not
> >> >> > to deep. The flux goes out and fills the threads. On deeper
holes
> >> >> where
> >> >> > something is in about 3/8 to 3/4 deep.......I've used a piece of
> >> >> rubber
> >> >> > vacuum hose over the stick to make sure I dont' side arc the
> >> >> threads. When
> >> >> > it is a real critical location I've also used those fibre faucet
> >> >> washers as
> >> >> > "bullseyes" to make sure I hit dead center on the broken stud or
> >> >> bolt with
> >> >> > the rod.
> >> >> >
> >> >> > Roger, do you want me to send along a rod of this material. It
is
> >> >> like
> >> >> > 150,018........and it forms up like an icicle - one tack on top of
> >> >> the other
> >> >> > until you can get a grip on the stack of repair rod with a set of
> >> >> vice
> >> >> > grips - or welding on a nut to get a better two sided twist works
> >> >> well also.
> >> >> > So it does not weld up like stud welding - but rather one tack on
> >> >> top of the
> >> >> > next to build it out to where you can get at it.
> >> >> >
> >> >> > Ralph
> >> >> >
> >> >> > ----- Original Message -----
> >> >> > From: "Larry and Pat Brown" <lp.brown at verizon.net>
> >> >> > To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> >> >> > Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2005 9:42 PM
> >> >> > Subject: Re: [TheForge] drill bit stock
> >> >> >
> >> >> > > Do you have an electric welder? They sell a rod for building up
> >> >> broken
> >> >> > > bolts to get them out, The rod burns in the center, under the
> >> >> coating and
> >> >> > > doesn't arc to the sides allowing you to puddle a new bolt
shaft.
> >> >> Used
> >> >> > them
> >> >> > > about 4 times with success. Would have used more but that was
all
> >> >> that was
> >> >> > > in the sample pack. I would try to heat the bit first, then
build
> >> >> it up to
> >> >> > > where vise grips will help
> >> >> > > Larry Brown
> >> >> > >
> >> >> > >
> >> >> > > At 08:50 AM 5/31/2005 -0700, you wrote:
> >> >> > > >Does anyone out there know the type of stock used in the common
> >> >> hardware
> >> >> > > >store high speed drill bits for steel. Do you per chance know
> >> >> the steps
> >> >> > > >for annealing them.
> >> >> > > >
> >> >> > > >Yes, I ask because I broke a drill bit in a piece of stock
> >> >> where
> >> >> > > >welding, reforging, and repositioning was not an option. I
> >> >> tried all
> >> >> > > >the tricks as well as attemting to anneal as I would a common
> >> >> high
> >> >> > > >carbon steel and drill it out but it seemed to have little or
no
> >> >> affect.
> >> >> > > >
> >> >> > > >Thank you,
> >> >> > > >
> >> >> > > >Roger Olsen
> >> >> > > >
> >> >> > > >_______________________________________________
> >> >> > > >Manage membership or unsubscribe at:
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> >> >> > > >Login: blacksmithblacksmith at hotmail.com
> >> >> > > >password: anvil
> >> >> > > >___________
> >> >> > >
> >> >> > >
> >> >> > > _______________________________________________
> >> >> > > Manage membership or unsubscribe at:
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> >> >> > > http://www.photoaccess.com
> >> >> > > Login: blacksmithblacksmith at hotmail.com
> >> >> > > password: anvil
> >> >> > > ___________
> >> >> > >
> >> >> > >
> >> >> >
> >> >> > _______________________________________________
> >> >> > Manage membership or unsubscribe at:
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> >> >> > theforge mail list group photo site is
> >> >> > http://www.photoaccess.com
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> >> >> > password: anvil
> >> >> > ___________
> >> >>
> >> >> _______________________________________________
> >> >> Manage membership or unsubscribe at:
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> >> >> theforge mail list group photo site is
> >> >> http://www.photoaccess.com
> >> >> Login: blacksmithblacksmith at hotmail.com
> >> >> password: anvil
> >> >> ___________
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >
> >> > _______________________________________________
> >> > Manage membership or unsubscribe at:
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> >> > theforge mail list group photo site is
> >> > http://www.photoaccess.com
> >> > Login: blacksmithblacksmith at hotmail.com
> >> > password: anvil
> >> > ___________
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Manage membership or unsubscribe at:
> >> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/theforge
> >> theforge mail list group photo site is
> >> http://www.photoaccess.com
> >> Login: blacksmithblacksmith at hotmail.com
> >> password: anvil
> >> ___________
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Manage membership or unsubscribe at:
> > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/theforge
> > theforge mail list group photo site is
> > http://www.photoaccess.com
> > Login: blacksmithblacksmith at hotmail.com
> > password: anvil
> > ___________
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Manage membership or unsubscribe at:
> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/theforge
> theforge mail list group photo site is
> http://www.photoaccess.com
> Login: blacksmithblacksmith at hotmail.com
> password: anvil
> ___________
>
>
>
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