[TheForge] Re: brill dit stock (grrr)

Thu Jun 2 02:35:52 EDT 2005

Justin,
You are in luck if you can turn the part so the stud is facing up. Your stud
is in aluminum. Get Sodium Bisulfate from a spa or pool supply. It is also
called pH Down. Using modeling clay or putty, build a dam around the stud.
Fill the dam with water and then add as much pH down as the dam will hold.
Every time it quits bubbling add some more crystals. It will eat the steel
and only clean the aluminum.

Darrell

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Justin Fellenz" <sunironworks at yahoo.com>
To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2005 4:54 PM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Re: brill dit stock (grrr)

> Roger,
>
> Please share how you got that stud out. A stud just twisted off below
> grade in an aluminum intake manifold I'm working on, so I drilled a
> lovely, perfectly centered hole in the stud and decided--foolish me--to
> try my handy-dandy blue-point screw extractor set, which broke off in
> the *%)#$(#+ hole. So now I have high-carbon steel in a soft steel
> cylinder in aluminum, flush. I can get the broken end of the extractor
> good and red without the aluminum disappearing on me, but obviously
> cant go hotter. I was hoping that I could anneal the extractor by
> keeping the surrounding aluminum warm and then I figgered I'd try my
> own idea of heating the durn thing up and then drilling. The heat runs
> away so fast I ended up drilling while torching and the drill got red
> real fast. Maybe thats the answer though. I'm kind of at an impasse.
>
> Oh, this is a manifold off an old military truck, not the kind of thing
> I want to wreck and have to replace. Goes without saying I suppose.
>
> So...howd'ja do it?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Justin.
>
> --- Roger Olsen <erik at methow.com> wrote:
>
> > Hi Ralph,
> >
> > Thank you for the offer to send over a stick of Stud Plus but I have
> > no need at
> > this time.  I solverd my immediatee problem thru stubborness and the
> > sacrifice
> > of other bits.  I will definitly keep the Stud Plus in mind and when
> > next at
> > the welding supply by a stick or two.  I had never heard of it
> > before.
> >
> > I sure appreciate all this exchange of information and offers of
> > help.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Roger
> > _________________________
> >
> > Ralph Sproul wrote:
> >
> > > Larry has a good point on this one if the tap is only down about
> > 1/8 of an
> > > inch.  This rod is called Stud plus by Allstates repair rods.  I
> > have
> > > purchased and used two packages of this rod for removal of broken
> > studs and
> > > bolts from flywheels, dampers, castings, etc.
> > >
> > > I've found the rod does what Larry says and stays to the center if
> > your not
> > > to deep.  The flux goes out and fills the threads.  On deeper holes
> > where
> > > something is in about 3/8 to 3/4 deep.......I've used a piece of
> > rubber
> > > vacuum hose over the stick to make sure I dont' side arc the
> > threads.   When
> > > it is a real critical location I've also used those fibre faucet
> > washers as
> > > "bullseyes" to make sure I hit dead center on the broken stud or
> > bolt with
> > > the rod.
> > >
> > > Roger, do you want me to send along a rod of this material.   It is
> > like
> > > 150,018........and it forms up like an icicle - one tack on top of
> > the other
> > > until you can get a grip on the stack of repair rod with a set of
> > vice
> > > grips - or welding on a nut to get a better two sided twist works
> > well also.
> > > So it does not weld up like stud welding - but rather one tack on
> > top of the
> > > next to build it out to where you can get at it.
> > >
> > > Ralph
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Larry and Pat Brown" <lp.brown at verizon.net>
> > > To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> > > Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2005 9:42 PM
> > > Subject: Re: [TheForge] drill bit stock
> > >
> > > > Do you have an electric welder? They sell a rod for building up
> > broken
> > > > bolts to get them out, The rod burns in the center, under the
> > coating and
> > > > doesn't arc to the sides allowing you to puddle a new bolt shaft.
> > Used
> > > them
> > > > about 4 times with success. Would have used more but that was all
> > that was
> > > > in the sample pack. I would try to heat the bit first, then build
> > it up to
> > > > where vise grips will help
> > > > Larry Brown
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > At 08:50 AM 5/31/2005 -0700, you wrote:
> > > > >Does anyone out there know the type of stock used in the common
> > hardware
> > > > >store high speed drill bits for steel.  Do you per chance know
> > the steps
> > > > >for annealing them.
> > > > >
> > > > >Yes,  I ask because I broke a drill bit in a piece of stock
> > where
> > > > >welding, reforging, and repositioning was not an option.  I
> > tried all
> > > > >the tricks as well as attemting to anneal as I would a common
> > high
> > > > >carbon steel and drill it out but it seemed to have little or no
> > affect.
> > > > >
> > > > >Thank you,
> > > > >
> > > > >Roger Olsen
> > > > >
> > > > >_______________________________________________
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