[TheForge] wax finish question

[Jerry Frost]

Morning Roger:

The turpentine is only a thinner and penetrant and evaporates during 
application, so exact percentages aren't important as long as the desired 
effect occurs. In this instance I'd say it takes quite a bit more turpentine 
to disolve or just soften the wax.

I've been using a simple mix of parafin wax, turpentine and soot, similar to 
a finish from, "The Art of Blacksmithing" as best I could recall when I 
mixed it up. I kept adding turpentine till it had a shoe polish consistency. 
Over the years the turps have evaporated off and the mixture has gotten 
harder as has it's application. There has been no change in the finish it 
yields though.

So, from my experience I'd say add turpentine till you get a consistency you 
like.

Frosty
------------------------
If it ain't forged
it ain't real.
Wrought iron is.
The FrostWorks

Meadow Lakes, AK.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Roger Olsen" <erik at methow.com>
To: "theforge" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2005 7:43 AM
Subject: [TheForge] wax finish question


> Below are two recipes for a wax finish on forged ironwork.  The first is
> George Dixon'e recipe from the Yellin Shop, and the other was published
> in the last issue of the Hammer's Blow.  I find it curious that the two
> recipes reverse the numbers on the turpentine and linseed oil and also
> the dramatic amount difference in the Japan Drier.  I reralize that the
> Dixon recipe soes not have the wax as part of the original application
> and I assume that is why.  I much prefer the wax mixed with the drier,
> linseed oil and turpentine.
>
> Do any of you out there have any thoughts about these numbers,  I
> realize it is possible they were published incorrectly, also that it is
> possible it doesn't really matter.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Roger Olsen
> __________________________________
>
> I use the linseed oil and turpentine finish that I picked up working at
> Yellin's.
>
> If, for example, you use a one pound coffee can;
> 60% linseed oil (boiled)
> 40% turpentine
> one 8 oz bottle of japan drier (or pale drying oil)
>
> Apply at room temp to clean (hand sanded) metalwork with a brush (rags
> can't fit
> where a brush can and brushes don't leave lint).  Once dry, apply a coat
> of paste wax
> with a brush.  Allow the wax to dry and buff with a shoe brush (again,
> no rags-no
> lint).  Repeat the waxing two more times.
>
> Since the metal and the coating are at room temperature the outcome is
> even and quick
> when compared to heating a rail before coating it.
>
> I have interior work well over a decade old, coated as described, with
> no rust at all.
>
>
> Take care,
> George Dixon
> Former Head Blacksmith, Samuel Yellin Metalworkers
> ______________________________________________________
>
> from The Hammers Blow  Spring 2005
>
> 1 Lb. Victory microcrystalline wax
> 4 oz. boiled linseed oil
> 6 oz. turpentine
> 1 oz. Japan drier
>
> provided by R. Scott Rochester, N.Y.
>
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