[TheForge] wax finish question

[gblacksmith]

I use a mix of equal parts Boiled linseed oil, Beeswax and turpentine.  I 
apply it to a hot surface, heated just so the mix flows readily.  I do not 
add Japan drier.

You can also use linseed oil with Japan drier added.  Be advised that Japan 
drier is powerful, and  one teaspoon in a coffee can full of linseed will do 
the trick.

                                                                             
                    Grant
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Roger Olsen" <erik at methow.com>
To: "theforge" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2005 8:43 AM
Subject: [TheForge] wax finish question


> Below are two recipes for a wax finish on forged ironwork.  The first is
> George Dixon'e recipe from the Yellin Shop, and the other was published
> in the last issue of the Hammer's Blow.  I find it curious that the two
> recipes reverse the numbers on the turpentine and linseed oil and also
> the dramatic amount difference in the Japan Drier.  I reralize that the
> Dixon recipe soes not have the wax as part of the original application
> and I assume that is why.  I much prefer the wax mixed with the drier,
> linseed oil and turpentine.
>
> Do any of you out there have any thoughts about these numbers,  I
> realize it is possible they were published incorrectly, also that it is
> possible it doesn't really matter.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Roger Olsen
> __________________________________
>
> I use the linseed oil and turpentine finish that I picked up working at
> Yellin's.
>
> If, for example, you use a one pound coffee can;
> 60% linseed oil (boiled)
> 40% turpentine
> one 8 oz bottle of japan drier (or pale drying oil)
>
> Apply at room temp to clean (hand sanded) metalwork with a brush (rags
> can't fit
> where a brush can and brushes don't leave lint).  Once dry, apply a coat
> of paste wax
> with a brush.  Allow the wax to dry and buff with a shoe brush (again,
> no rags-no
> lint).  Repeat the waxing two more times.
>
> Since the metal and the coating are at room temperature the outcome is
> even and quick
> when compared to heating a rail before coating it.
>
> I have interior work well over a decade old, coated as described, with
> no rust at all.
>
>
> Take care,
> George Dixon
> Former Head Blacksmith, Samuel Yellin Metalworkers
> ______________________________________________________
>
> from The Hammers Blow  Spring 2005
>
> 1 Lb. Victory microcrystalline wax
> 4 oz. boiled linseed oil
> 6 oz. turpentine
> 1 oz. Japan drier
>
> provided by R. Scott Rochester, N.Y.
>
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