[TheForge] wax finish question

[Roger Olsen]

Below are two recipes for a wax finish on forged ironwork.  The first is
George Dixon'e recipe from the Yellin Shop, and the other was published
in the last issue of the Hammer's Blow.  I find it curious that the two
recipes reverse the numbers on the turpentine and linseed oil and also
the dramatic amount difference in the Japan Drier.  I reralize that the
Dixon recipe soes not have the wax as part of the original application
and I assume that is why.  I much prefer the wax mixed with the drier,
linseed oil and turpentine.

Do any of you out there have any thoughts about these numbers,  I
realize it is possible they were published incorrectly, also that it is
possible it doesn't really matter.

Thanks,

Roger Olsen
__________________________________

I use the linseed oil and turpentine finish that I picked up working at
Yellin's.

If, for example, you use a one pound coffee can;
60% linseed oil (boiled)
40% turpentine
one 8 oz bottle of japan drier (or pale drying oil)

Apply at room temp to clean (hand sanded) metalwork with a brush (rags
can't fit
where a brush can and brushes don't leave lint).  Once dry, apply a coat
of paste wax
with a brush.  Allow the wax to dry and buff with a shoe brush (again,
no rags-no
lint).  Repeat the waxing two more times.

Since the metal and the coating are at room temperature the outcome is
even and quick
when compared to heating a rail before coating it.

I have interior work well over a decade old, coated as described, with
no rust at all.


Take care,
George Dixon
Former Head Blacksmith, Samuel Yellin Metalworkers
______________________________________________________

from The Hammers Blow  Spring 2005

1 Lb. Victory microcrystalline wax
4 oz. boiled linseed oil
6 oz. turpentine
1 oz. Japan drier

provided by R. Scott Rochester, N.Y.