[TheForge] for andy gladish re: aluminum

[Jerry Frost]

Bill and anybody else wondering about Artmetal. It's now called the Artmetal 
Sandbox. We changed listservers a while back because the old one lost 
interest in hosting the list.

Here's the URL to subscribe, customize your subscription, etc.

http://www.artmetal.com/mailman/listinfo/sandbox

Hope to see you there.

Frosty
------------------------
If it ain't forged
it ain't real.
Wrought iron is.
The FrostWorks

Meadow Lakes, AK.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Woolley" <wjec at verizon.net>
To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 03, 2005 6:58 PM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] for andy gladish re: aluminum


> Hi,
>
> I thought the artmetal list didn't exist anymore.  Could you send me the
> contact info?  I used to like that list.  Thanks.
>
> Regards,
> Bill Woolley
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Roger Olsen" <erik at methow.com>
> To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> Sent: Sunday, July 03, 2005 10:04 AM
> Subject: [TheForge] for andy gladish re: aluminum
>
>
>> Hi Andy,
>>
>> awhile back you asked about forging and annealing aluminum.  This just
> came thru
>> on the 'artmetal' list.  I thought you may find it of interest.
>>
>> R. Olsen
>> _____________________
>>
>> I think you covered it very well Richard.
>> The only thing I could add is that a "wooden paint stick" like the ones
>> you get when you buy your paint. Are a great tool to tell you the temp
>> of the aluminum. I've got them laying all over my shop with the "High
>> Tech Temp Stik" label on them. You rub it on the aluminum as you heat
>> it. When the aluminum is cold the stick feels like an eraser on it, but
>> as it heats up the feel starts to get slippery. And the visual gauge
>> is.. As the aluminum gets up to temperature the stick will begin to
>> leave a mark. At the lower temp. it's a little colored mark, but as the
>> temp. comes up, the mark left gets darker. You'd never want to get
>> above black or you'll get that melting feeling. It takes some practice
>> but you can get very predictable results in a hurry.
>> bill
>> _____
>>
>> On Saturday, July 2, 2005, at 05:47  PM, Richard Ferguson wrote:
>>
>> > The way that I was taught to anneal aluminum was to use an
>> > oxy-acetylene torch.  You start with pure acetylene, a low sooty
>> > flame.  You then cover the piece with black soot.  After that, adjust
>> > the torch normally, with oxygen and acetylene.  Use the torch to burn
>> > off the soot.  When the soot is gone, it is annealed.  (This would
>> > apply to sheet, not necessarily to thick pieces)
>> >
>> > My track record on this is not too good, in that I sometimes overheat
>> > the aluminum, usually when trying to burn off the last of the soot. It
>> > is pretty obvious when it happens. I suggest stopping after most of it
>> > is done, letting it cool, and then going back to the spots that still
>> > have soot.  The heat seems to be additive, and when the whole piece is
>> > hot, it is easier to overheat one area.
>> >
>> > I know that other people have other techniques.
>> >
>> > Richard
>>
>>
>>
>>
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