[TheForge] for andy gladish re: aluminum

[Woolley]

Hi,

I thought the artmetal list didn't exist anymore.  Could you send me the
contact info?  I used to like that list.  Thanks.

Regards,
Bill Woolley



----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Olsen" <erik at methow.com>
To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 03, 2005 10:04 AM
Subject: [TheForge] for andy gladish re: aluminum


> Hi Andy,
>
> awhile back you asked about forging and annealing aluminum.  This just
came thru
> on the 'artmetal' list.  I thought you may find it of interest.
>
> R. Olsen
> _____________________
>
> I think you covered it very well Richard.
> The only thing I could add is that a "wooden paint stick" like the ones
> you get when you buy your paint. Are a great tool to tell you the temp
> of the aluminum. I've got them laying all over my shop with the "High
> Tech Temp Stik" label on them. You rub it on the aluminum as you heat
> it. When the aluminum is cold the stick feels like an eraser on it, but
> as it heats up the feel starts to get slippery. And the visual gauge
> is.. As the aluminum gets up to temperature the stick will begin to
> leave a mark. At the lower temp. it's a little colored mark, but as the
> temp. comes up, the mark left gets darker. You'd never want to get
> above black or you'll get that melting feeling. It takes some practice
> but you can get very predictable results in a hurry.
> bill
> _____
>
> On Saturday, July 2, 2005, at 05:47  PM, Richard Ferguson wrote:
>
> > The way that I was taught to anneal aluminum was to use an
> > oxy-acetylene torch.  You start with pure acetylene, a low sooty
> > flame.  You then cover the piece with black soot.  After that, adjust
> > the torch normally, with oxygen and acetylene.  Use the torch to burn
> > off the soot.  When the soot is gone, it is annealed.  (This would
> > apply to sheet, not necessarily to thick pieces)
> >
> > My track record on this is not too good, in that I sometimes overheat
> > the aluminum, usually when trying to burn off the last of the soot. It
> > is pretty obvious when it happens. I suggest stopping after most of it
> > is done, letting it cool, and then going back to the spots that still
> > have soot.  The heat seems to be additive, and when the whole piece is
> > hot, it is easier to overheat one area.
> >
> > I know that other people have other techniques.
> >
> > Richard
>
>
>
>
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