[TheForge] for andy gladish re: aluminum

[Gladish Family]

Thanks, Roger!
I kind of got a feel for it, but my customer decided she wanted "wrought 
iron", which in this case means stuff like angle iron and plumbing pipe 
made into flowers, leaves, eggs, and other assorted silliness.
Still think it would have looked better in Al, and sure would have 
lasted longer by the oceanside...but that's history now.
Anyway, this one's going in the file.
Andy G.

Roger Olsen wrote:

>Hi Andy,
>
>awhile back you asked about forging and annealing aluminum.  This just came thru
>on the 'artmetal' list.  I thought you may find it of interest.
>
>R. Olsen
>_____________________
>
>I think you covered it very well Richard.
>The only thing I could add is that a "wooden paint stick" like the ones
>you get when you buy your paint. Are a great tool to tell you the temp
>of the aluminum. I've got them laying all over my shop with the "High
>Tech Temp Stik" label on them. You rub it on the aluminum as you heat
>it. When the aluminum is cold the stick feels like an eraser on it, but
>as it heats up the feel starts to get slippery. And the visual gauge
>is.. As the aluminum gets up to temperature the stick will begin to
>leave a mark. At the lower temp. it's a little colored mark, but as the
>temp. comes up, the mark left gets darker. You'd never want to get
>above black or you'll get that melting feeling. It takes some practice
>but you can get very predictable results in a hurry.
>bill
>_____
>
>On Saturday, July 2, 2005, at 05:47  PM, Richard Ferguson wrote:
>
>  
>
>>The way that I was taught to anneal aluminum was to use an
>>oxy-acetylene torch.  You start with pure acetylene, a low sooty
>>flame.  You then cover the piece with black soot.  After that, adjust
>>the torch normally, with oxygen and acetylene.  Use the torch to burn
>>off the soot.  When the soot is gone, it is annealed.  (This would
>>apply to sheet, not necessarily to thick pieces)
>>
>>My track record on this is not too good, in that I sometimes overheat
>>the aluminum, usually when trying to burn off the last of the soot. It
>>is pretty obvious when it happens. I suggest stopping after most of it
>>is done, letting it cool, and then going back to the spots that still
>>have soot.  The heat seems to be additive, and when the whole piece is
>>hot, it is easier to overheat one area.
>>
>>I know that other people have other techniques.
>>
>>Richard
>>    
>>
>
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Manage membership or unsubscribe at:
>http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/theforge
>theforge mail list group photo site is
>http://www.photoaccess.com
>Login:  blacksmithblacksmith at hotmail.com
>password:  anvil
>___________
>
>
>
>
>  
>

-- 
Andy Gladish, Metalwork
7141 Guemes Island Rd.
Anacortes, WA 98221
Element Forge  www.elementfe.com
mailto: andy at elementfe.com

I never saw an ugly thing in my life: for let the form of an object be what
it may, -- light, shade, and perspective will always make it beautiful.
-John Constable, painter (1776-1837)