[TheForge] for andy gladish re: aluminum

[Woolley]

Thanks!

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Frost" <frosty at customcpu.com>
To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Monday, July 04, 2005 1:07 AM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] for andy gladish re: aluminum


> Bill and anybody else wondering about Artmetal. It's now called the
Artmetal
> Sandbox. We changed listservers a while back because the old one lost
> interest in hosting the list.
>
> Here's the URL to subscribe, customize your subscription, etc.
>
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> Hope to see you there.
>
> Frosty
> ------------------------
> If it ain't forged
> it ain't real.
> Wrought iron is.
> The FrostWorks
>
> Meadow Lakes, AK.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Woolley" <wjec at verizon.net>
> To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> Sent: Sunday, July 03, 2005 6:58 PM
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] for andy gladish re: aluminum
>
>
> > Hi,
> >
> > I thought the artmetal list didn't exist anymore.  Could you send me the
> > contact info?  I used to like that list.  Thanks.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Bill Woolley
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Roger Olsen" <erik at methow.com>
> > To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> > Sent: Sunday, July 03, 2005 10:04 AM
> > Subject: [TheForge] for andy gladish re: aluminum
> >
> >
> >> Hi Andy,
> >>
> >> awhile back you asked about forging and annealing aluminum.  This just
> > came thru
> >> on the 'artmetal' list.  I thought you may find it of interest.
> >>
> >> R. Olsen
> >> _____________________
> >>
> >> I think you covered it very well Richard.
> >> The only thing I could add is that a "wooden paint stick" like the ones
> >> you get when you buy your paint. Are a great tool to tell you the temp
> >> of the aluminum. I've got them laying all over my shop with the "High
> >> Tech Temp Stik" label on them. You rub it on the aluminum as you heat
> >> it. When the aluminum is cold the stick feels like an eraser on it, but
> >> as it heats up the feel starts to get slippery. And the visual gauge
> >> is.. As the aluminum gets up to temperature the stick will begin to
> >> leave a mark. At the lower temp. it's a little colored mark, but as the
> >> temp. comes up, the mark left gets darker. You'd never want to get
> >> above black or you'll get that melting feeling. It takes some practice
> >> but you can get very predictable results in a hurry.
> >> bill
> >> _____
> >>
> >> On Saturday, July 2, 2005, at 05:47  PM, Richard Ferguson wrote:
> >>
> >> > The way that I was taught to anneal aluminum was to use an
> >> > oxy-acetylene torch.  You start with pure acetylene, a low sooty
> >> > flame.  You then cover the piece with black soot.  After that, adjust
> >> > the torch normally, with oxygen and acetylene.  Use the torch to burn
> >> > off the soot.  When the soot is gone, it is annealed.  (This would
> >> > apply to sheet, not necessarily to thick pieces)
> >> >
> >> > My track record on this is not too good, in that I sometimes overheat
> >> > the aluminum, usually when trying to burn off the last of the soot.
It
> >> > is pretty obvious when it happens. I suggest stopping after most of
it
> >> > is done, letting it cool, and then going back to the spots that still
> >> > have soot.  The heat seems to be additive, and when the whole piece
is
> >> > hot, it is easier to overheat one area.
> >> >
> >> > I know that other people have other techniques.
> >> >
> >> > Richard
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
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