[TheForge] chinese ASOs

Paul Hewitt [email protected]
Fri Mar 28 23:27:01 2003


Yes you could nickel braze it in a vacuum furnace if you have the $$$.  We
used to make some parts called Theta Axis Units.  What there were was a
precision bearing housing, and a spindle plate that you drove with a servo
motor for grinding the edges of silicon wafers. See the bottom of the page
http://www.automationtechnology.com/partsmanf.htm.

For a long time the face plates were required to be manufactured from
stainless and the shafts from carbon steel for tolerance reasons.  The two
pieces were press fit, then vacuum brazed together, to form a spindle unit
that a vacuum chuck could be mounted to.  This came at a very high price.
But on a 9000.00 dollar high accuracy grinding platform nobody cared.  When
I left the company we had started to make them from a single piece of stress
relieved stainless.

Enough Rambling.  You can vacuum braze about anything, it just cost allot of
money.

Paul Hewitt

H&H Custom Solutions.
Jack of All master of a few................


----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Fertner" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, March 28, 2003 3:27 PM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] chinese ASOs


> I seem to recall a few years back, someone suggesting nickel brazing in a
> vacuum furnance to reface an anvil. I wonder if it's ever been tried?
> Rob
> cool and windy in Wichita, KS
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "lama" <[email protected]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Friday, March 28, 2003 4:56 PM
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] chinese ASOs
>
>
> > That Frosty is a pretty smart dude, but I never heard of brazing a
> hardface
> > to an anvil.
> > The wrought ones were forge welded on. I have heard of using electric
> "plug
> > welds"
> > through the hard face plate then an "edge weld" around the whole hard
face
> > to attach
> > it to an anvil body. That might work well with a cast iron anvil body
and
> a
> > hard face plate.
> > dave m
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Dan Tull" <[email protected]>
> > To: <[email protected]>
> > Sent: Friday, March 28, 2003 2:41 PM
> > Subject: Re: [TheForge] chinese ASOs
> >
> >
> > > Seems to me ( whadaino ), the heat required to effect change  would
> > un-braze
> > > the
> > > steel plate.?
> > > dan tull
> > > georgia
> > > abba, afc, S.C. psba, obg,sofa
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Jerry Frost" <[email protected]>
> > > To: <[email protected]>
> > > Sent: Friday, March 28, 2003 2:42 PM
> > > Subject: Re: [TheForge] chinese ASOs
> > >
> > >
> > > > Basically anvils are such a large mass of metal they can't be heat
> > treated
> > > > like say a blade, hammer head, etc. Typically the anvil would be
taken
> > > from
> > > > the forge / furnace and partially quenched, letting the residual
heat
> > from
> > > > the body soak(?) back out and temper the face.
> > > >
> > > > There were a couple "traditional" ways to quench/temper anvils that
I
> > know
> > > > of. Probably the most common was to suspend the hot anvil upside
down
> in
> > a
> > > > large pond, creek, etc. The other way I know of was to direct a
> measured
> > > > amount of water over a measured amount of time onto the face of the
> > anvil.
> > > >
> > > > From what I've been told the second method is how Sodorfors heat
> treated
> > > > their anvils. They had large water tanks with orifices sized for
> > specific
> > > > weights of anvils. The tanks were filled to a mark for a given anvil
> > > weight
> > > > and the valve opened. When the tank ran dry the anvil was quenched
and
> > > > tempered.
> > > >
> > > > Frosty
> > > > ------------------------
> > > > If it ain't forged
> > > > it ain't real.
> > > > Wrought iron is.
> > > > The FrostWorks
> > > >
> > > > Meadow Lakes, AK.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "Dan Tull" <[email protected]>
> > > > To: <[email protected]>
> > > > Sent: Friday, March 28, 2003 10:04 AM
> > > > Subject: Re: [TheForge] chinese ASOs
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > Jerry,
> > > > >
> > > > > I don't understand the quench/ temper part.??
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > dan tull
> > > > > georgia
> > > > > abba, afc, S.C. psba, obg,sofa
> > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > From: "Jerry Frost" <[email protected]>
> > > > > To: <[email protected]>
> > > > > Sent: Friday, March 28, 2003 1:48 PM
> > > > > Subject: [TheForge] chinese ASOs
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > > Something I've contemplated and will try one of these days is
> > putting
> > > a
> > > > > > steel face on a cast iron chinese junk anvil.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > It shouldn't be too hard to do:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Grind the existing face smooth and make a matching steel plate.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Build a heavy steel stand to hold the anvil upside down a foot
or
> so
> > > off
> > > > > the
> > > > > > ground.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Put the steel plate on the stand, flux it, lay either brazing
rod
> or
> > a
> > > > > thin
> > > > > > sheet of brass on it, flux it and lay the anvil upside down on
it.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > True it all up and build a big fire under and around it.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Watch closely when it starts hitting bright red. When you see
> brass
> > > > > running
> > > > > > out of the joint rake the fire away and extinguish.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > After the braze is cool enough to hold, flip the anvil over and
> > start
> > > > the
> > > > > > quench/temper.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > It's a thought anyway. <grin>
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Frosty
> > > > > > ------------------------
> > > > > > If it ain't forged
> > > > > > it ain't real.
> > > > > > Wrought iron is.
> > > > > > The FrostWorks
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Meadow Lakes, AK.
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > > From: "Phlip" <[email protected]>
> > > > > > To: <[email protected]>
> > > > > > Sent: Friday, March 28, 2003 9:04 AM
> > > > > > Subject: Re: [TheForge] Re: Power hammer questions
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Ene bichizh ogsen baina shuu...
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > The 55 LB H.F. ASOs that I have seen are porous and they do
> not
> > > have
> > > > > the
> > > > > > > > necessary tool steel plate that a good cast anvil has.
> > > > > > > > Darrell
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > A friend of mine just dropped off a 55 lb HF cast steel, and
it
> > > looks
> > > > > OK.
> > > > > > > I'll likely hafta work on the horn to round it more- it's
pretty
> > > flat-
> > > > > but
> > > > > > > it looks like it will be ideal for my purposes, which is to
> > basicly
> > > > have
> > > > > > > small, light anvils I can take with me to SCA events, and let
> them
> > > > have
> > > > > > > something to pound on.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Think I'll likely buy a couple.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Phlip
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >  If it walks like a duck, and quacks like a duck, it is
probably
> > not
> > > a
> > > > > > > cat.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Never a horse that cain't be rode,
> > > > > > > And never a rider who cain't be throwed....
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
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