[TheForge] chinese ASOs

Fri Mar 28 23:36:01 2003

What about using tool steel that doesnt need tempering? I dont temper H13
tooling I make, then again I dont think you are even meant to. Then the
brazing and the heattreating via air cooling become the same process.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Hewitt" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: 29 March, 2003 2:49 PM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] chinese ASOs

> Yes you could nickel braze it in a vacuum furnace if you have the $$$.  We
> used to make some parts called Theta Axis Units.  What there were was a
> precision bearing housing, and a spindle plate that you drove with a servo
> motor for grinding the edges of silicon wafers. See the bottom of the page
> http://www.automationtechnology.com/partsmanf.htm.
>
> For a long time the face plates were required to be manufactured from
> stainless and the shafts from carbon steel for tolerance reasons.  The two
> pieces were press fit, then vacuum brazed together, to form a spindle unit
> that a vacuum chuck could be mounted to.  This came at a very high price.
> But on a 9000.00 dollar high accuracy grinding platform nobody cared.
When
> I left the company we had started to make them from a single piece of
stress
> relieved stainless.
>
> Enough Rambling.  You can vacuum braze about anything, it just cost allot
of
> money.
>
> Paul Hewitt
>
> H&H Custom Solutions.
> Jack of All master of a few................
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rob Fertner" <[email protected]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Friday, March 28, 2003 3:27 PM
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] chinese ASOs
>
>
> > I seem to recall a few years back, someone suggesting nickel brazing in
a
> > vacuum furnance to reface an anvil. I wonder if it's ever been tried?
> > Rob
> > cool and windy in Wichita, KS
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "lama" <[email protected]>
> > To: <[email protected]>
> > Sent: Friday, March 28, 2003 4:56 PM
> > Subject: Re: [TheForge] chinese ASOs
> >
> >
> > > That Frosty is a pretty smart dude, but I never heard of brazing a
> > hardface
> > > to an anvil.
> > > The wrought ones were forge welded on. I have heard of using electric
> > "plug
> > > welds"
> > > through the hard face plate then an "edge weld" around the whole hard
> face
> > > to attach
> > > it to an anvil body. That might work well with a cast iron anvil body
> and
> > a
> > > hard face plate.
> > > dave m
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Dan Tull" <[email protected]>
> > > To: <[email protected]>
> > > Sent: Friday, March 28, 2003 2:41 PM
> > > Subject: Re: [TheForge] chinese ASOs
> > >
> > >
> > > > Seems to me ( whadaino ), the heat required to effect change  would
> > > un-braze
> > > > the
> > > > steel plate.?
> > > > dan tull
> > > > georgia
> > > > abba, afc, S.C. psba, obg,sofa
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "Jerry Frost" <[email protected]>
> > > > To: <[email protected]>
> > > > Sent: Friday, March 28, 2003 2:42 PM
> > > > Subject: Re: [TheForge] chinese ASOs
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > Basically anvils are such a large mass of metal they can't be heat
> > > treated
> > > > > like say a blade, hammer head, etc. Typically the anvil would be
> taken
> > > > from
> > > > > the forge / furnace and partially quenched, letting the residual
> heat
> > > from
> > > > > the body soak(?) back out and temper the face.
> > > > >
> > > > > There were a couple "traditional" ways to quench/temper anvils
that
> I
> > > know
> > > > > of. Probably the most common was to suspend the hot anvil upside
> down
> > in
> > > a
> > > > > large pond, creek, etc. The other way I know of was to direct a
> > measured
> > > > > amount of water over a measured amount of time onto the face of
the
> > > anvil.
> > > > >
> > > > > From what I've been told the second method is how Sodorfors heat
> > treated
> > > > > their anvils. They had large water tanks with orifices sized for
> > > specific
> > > > > weights of anvils. The tanks were filled to a mark for a given
anvil
> > > > weight
> > > > > and the valve opened. When the tank ran dry the anvil was quenched
> and
> > > > > tempered.
> > > > >
> > > > > Frosty
> > > > > ------------------------
> > > > > If it ain't forged
> > > > > it ain't real.
> > > > > Wrought iron is.
> > > > > The FrostWorks
> > > > >
> > > > > Meadow Lakes, AK.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > From: "Dan Tull" <[email protected]>
> > > > > To: <[email protected]>
> > > > > Sent: Friday, March 28, 2003 10:04 AM
> > > > > Subject: Re: [TheForge] chinese ASOs
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > > Jerry,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I don't understand the quench/ temper part.??
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > dan tull
> > > > > > georgia
> > > > > > abba, afc, S.C. psba, obg,sofa
> > > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > > From: "Jerry Frost" <[email protected]>
> > > > > > To: <[email protected]>
> > > > > > Sent: Friday, March 28, 2003 1:48 PM
> > > > > > Subject: [TheForge] chinese ASOs
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > > Something I've contemplated and will try one of these days is
> > > putting
> > > > a
> > > > > > > steel face on a cast iron chinese junk anvil.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > It shouldn't be too hard to do:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Grind the existing face smooth and make a matching steel
plate.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Build a heavy steel stand to hold the anvil upside down a foot
> or
> > so
> > > > off
> > > > > > the
> > > > > > > ground.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Put the steel plate on the stand, flux it, lay either brazing
> rod
> > or
> > > a
> > > > > > thin
> > > > > > > sheet of brass on it, flux it and lay the anvil upside down on
> it.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > True it all up and build a big fire under and around it.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Watch closely when it starts hitting bright red. When you see
> > brass
> > > > > > running
> > > > > > > out of the joint rake the fire away and extinguish.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > After the braze is cool enough to hold, flip the anvil over
and
> > > start
> > > > > the
> > > > > > > quench/temper.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > It's a thought anyway. <grin>
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Frosty
> > > > > > > ------------------------
> > > > > > > If it ain't forged
> > > > > > > it ain't real.
> > > > > > > Wrought iron is.
> > > > > > > The FrostWorks
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Meadow Lakes, AK.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > > > From: "Phlip" <[email protected]>
> > > > > > > To: <[email protected]>
> > > > > > > Sent: Friday, March 28, 2003 9:04 AM
> > > > > > > Subject: Re: [TheForge] Re: Power hammer questions
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Ene bichizh ogsen baina shuu...
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > The 55 LB H.F. ASOs that I have seen are porous and they
do
> > not
> > > > have
> > > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > necessary tool steel plate that a good cast anvil has.
> > > > > > > > > Darrell
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > A friend of mine just dropped off a 55 lb HF cast steel, and
> it
> > > > looks
> > > > > > OK.
> > > > > > > > I'll likely hafta work on the horn to round it more- it's
> pretty
> > > > flat-
> > > > > > but
> > > > > > > > it looks like it will be ideal for my purposes, which is to
> > > basicly
> > > > > have
> > > > > > > > small, light anvils I can take with me to SCA events, and
let
> > them
> > > > > have
> > > > > > > > something to pound on.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Think I'll likely buy a couple.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Phlip
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >  If it walks like a duck, and quacks like a duck, it is
> probably
> > > not
> > > > a
> > > > > > > > cat.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Never a horse that cain't be rode,
> > > > > > > > And never a rider who cain't be throwed....
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
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