[TheForge] Swedge block question

Wed Apr 23 08:54:00 2003

I think I would build a spring fuller, bottom die is 3/4"  1/2 round, just
drill a 3/4" hole between 2 blocks of iron and you have 2 of them, the top
die would be a fuller around 1" wide.   top drawing die of a power hammer
would work good too.  You need to stretch the iron, unless you are using the
pien of a hand hammer it moves it as much sideways as it does lengthways.
Just working one side like this will curve your work but it would be easy
enough to straighten.
Randy Mundt
----- Original Message -----
From: "gblacksmith" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2003 9:43 AM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Swedge block question


> Bob:  After swaging, did you get the 3/4 half-round profile you wanted,
even
> though short?
>
> Quite often, when only a small amount of stretch is observed, it is
because
> the stock was not heated sufficiently.  Swaging is most efficient at a
> yellow heat.  A striker with a sledge can be a big help.  If not
available,
> a heavy single-jack is the next best thing.  Hand swaging is hard work, at
> best.
>
> If the profile you produced is acceptable as you need it, except for
length,
> calculate your actual stretch of 4" as a percent of  the 15.5 you started
> with (26.6%), and cut a starting piece that is 26.6%  shorter than 31", or
> 22.754"
>
> I have used this method satisfactorily in the past, but given the choice,
I
> try to work with stock that is as close to finished dimension as possible,
> taking forging into account.
>
> Are you making a cap railing for a stair?  Let me know how you solve this
> problem
>
>                                 Grant  Marcoux
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Rackers" <[email protected]>
> To: "TheForge" <[email protected]>
> Sent: Monday, April 21, 2003 5:12 PM
> Subject: [TheForge] Swedge block question
>
>
> > I had an interesting day in the blacksmith shop today, and it sparked a
> couple
> > of questions.
> > I have to forge a 15.5" length of 3/4 round to a 31" long half-round
> profile
> > (i.e. imagine cutting the 3/4 round down the center and using one half
or
> the
> > other).
> > I thought it would be a simple enough matter to place the rod into the
> 3/4"
> > slot of my swedge block and peen across the length of the bar to stretch
> it
> > out.
> > It didn't exactly work as well as I'd have thought. After going the
entire
> > length, the bar only grew in length by 4".
> > So my questions are:
> > 1. How deep should the 3/4" round slot (on the edge of the swedge block)
> be if
> > the width is 3/4"?
> > I've rounded the edges a bit, though I think a little more wouldn't
hurt.
> > I assume it has to be less than 3/8", but how much less?
> >
> > 2. Is there a rule of thumb I can use for the other slots as well?
> > I still have to clean up the rough casting on some of them.
> >
> > 3. What is the best (most efficient) way to double the length of the bar
> and
> > end up with the half-round profile I need?
> > Forge it square first, etc.?
> > No power hammer of any sort (yet), so that option's out.
> >
> > 4. What's the best way to both flatten and straighten this length (or
> longer)
> > once I have the profile complete?
> > As I work it I try to keep it relatively flat, straight and untwisted as
I
> go,
> > but I need to end up with the flat section on the same plane when I'm
> done.
> >
> > 5. While I'm asking questions, I might as well ask for the best method
of
> > making two 90 degree bends (sideways) in this bar once I have the length
I
> > need.
> > This bar is going to be attached underneath a wooden board, with the
flat
> > section against the board.
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Bob
> >
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