[TheForge] Swedge block question

Tue Apr 22 00:22:00 2003

Bill -

1. The reason I ask about the depth is that if the depth is exactly half the
diameter, it seems you're likely to hit the swedge block with the hammer.
It therefore seems the depth should be slightly less than that.

2. Same as #1 above.

3. Smaller size stock isn't what I'm shooting for. This is just part of the
piece, the rest of which is the full 3/4" round.

4. The flattened material requires two 90 degree bends. I was wondering if
there's a simple solution to flattening the flattened side to the same plane
once the bends are in. It also involves removing any twisting that might work
its way into the problem. I guess what I was wondering is if a large metal
table is called for at the end to bring everything into the same plane, or
whatever else might be used.

5. I was thinking of the corner swedge as well.

6. This is both functional as well as decorative.

Thanks.

Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected]
[mailto:[email protected]]On Behalf Of April and Bill
Clemens
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2003 11:45 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: [TheForge] Swedge block question

Bob,

1.  The depth of the slot probably depend on the swedge block.  I
checked the one I have (green & mengel) and on side it has slots from 2"
to 1/4 " that are all half circles (2" is 1" deep 1 1/2" is 3/4" deep
etc) Other side has some larger round slots that are less than 1/2 dia
deep.

2. I think it's your preference, kind of like the edges of your anvil.
Round it a bit, try it is your work gets marked round it a bit more.

3.  I'd try a smaller size stock closer in cross sectional area  to the
3/4" half round you're trying to make. The area of 3/4" half round is
.2218 sq in

Working backwards that comes out to .53 dia round stock.  Pretty close
to 1/2 in round.  Although you will get some stretching of the stock as
you forge it into the swedge so something bigger would be better.  1/2
in square is .25 sq in so that might work.  I'd try both and see which
works best.

4.  Should be able to keep it flat and straight as you go in the swedge
block.  If not tap gently on the face of you anvil at dull red heat or
use a wooden or brass hammer to keep from marring the half round
profile.

5.  I'd make a corner swedge and bend the stock before swedging to half
round.  The bend in the parent stock (1/2" round or 1/2" or whatever you
end up using) won't have to be a perfect corner bend since you'll be
swedging it into the half round corner swedge.

You say this is going to be attached under a board.  Will it be visible?
Is it decorative or functional?

Bill Clemens