[TheForge] Swedge block question

Mon Apr 21 23:48:03 2003

Bob,

1.  The depth of the slot probably depend on the swedge block.  I
checked the one I have (green & mengel) and on side it has slots from 2"
to 1/4 " that are all half circles (2" is 1" deep 1 1/2" is 3/4" deep
etc) Other side has some larger round slots that are less than 1/2 dia
deep.

2. I think it's your preference, kind of like the edges of your anvil.
Round it a bit, try it is your work gets marked round it a bit more.  

3.  I'd try a smaller size stock closer in cross sectional area  to the
3/4" half round you're trying to make. The area of 3/4" half round is
.2218 sq in 

Working backwards that comes out to .53 dia round stock.  Pretty close
to 1/2 in round.  Although you will get some stretching of the stock as
you forge it into the swedge so something bigger would be better.  1/2
in square is .25 sq in so that might work.  I'd try both and see which
works best.

4.  Should be able to keep it flat and straight as you go in the swedge
block.  If not tap gently on the face of you anvil at dull red heat or
use a wooden or brass hammer to keep from marring the half round
profile.

5.  I'd make a corner swedge and bend the stock before swedging to half
round.  The bend in the parent stock (1/2" round or 1/2" or whatever you
end up using) won't have to be a perfect corner bend since you'll be
swedging it into the half round corner swedge.  

You say this is going to be attached under a board.  Will it be visible?
Is it decorative or functional?  

Bill Clemens

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected]
[mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Bob Rackers
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2003 8:12 PM
To: TheForge
Subject: [TheForge] Swedge block question

I had an interesting day in the blacksmith shop today, and it sparked a
couple
of questions.
I have to forge a 15.5" length of 3/4 round to a 31" long half-round
profile
(i.e. imagine cutting the 3/4 round down the center and using one half
or the
other).
I thought it would be a simple enough matter to place the rod into the
3/4"
slot of my swedge block and peen across the length of the bar to stretch
it
out.
It didn't exactly work as well as I'd have thought. After going the
entire
length, the bar only grew in length by 4".
So my questions are:
1. How deep should the 3/4" round slot (on the edge of the swedge block)
be if
the width is 3/4"?
I've rounded the edges a bit, though I think a little more wouldn't
hurt.
I assume it has to be less than 3/8", but how much less?

2. Is there a rule of thumb I can use for the other slots as well?
I still have to clean up the rough casting on some of them.

3. What is the best (most efficient) way to double the length of the bar
and
end up with the half-round profile I need?
Forge it square first, etc.?
No power hammer of any sort (yet), so that option's out.

4. What's the best way to both flatten and straighten this length (or
longer)
once I have the profile complete?
As I work it I try to keep it relatively flat, straight and untwisted as
I go,
but I need to end up with the flat section on the same plane when I'm
done.

5. While I'm asking questions, I might as well ask for the best method
of
making two 90 degree bends (sideways) in this bar once I have the length
I
need.
This bar is going to be attached underneath a wooden board, with the
flat
section against the board.

Thanks.

Bob

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