[TheForge] Swedge block question

[Steve Smith]

Maybe you should start with something smaller diameter and forge it into 
the 3/4 round slot. This way you won't have to go to the work of 
doubling the length. Half of 3/4 round should be a little larger than 
1/2. Try 1/2 and 5/8 and see what strikes your fancy. This will be 
*lots* easier. Use a bigger hammer also. Better yet, use a friend with a 
sledge.

Steve Smith

Bob Rackers wrote:
> I had an interesting day in the blacksmith shop today, and it sparked a couple
> of questions.
> I have to forge a 15.5" length of 3/4 round to a 31" long half-round profile
> (i.e. imagine cutting the 3/4 round down the center and using one half or the
> other).
> I thought it would be a simple enough matter to place the rod into the 3/4"
> slot of my swedge block and peen across the length of the bar to stretch it
> out.
> It didn't exactly work as well as I'd have thought. After going the entire
> length, the bar only grew in length by 4".
> So my questions are:
> 1. How deep should the 3/4" round slot (on the edge of the swedge block) be if
> the width is 3/4"?
> I've rounded the edges a bit, though I think a little more wouldn't hurt.
> I assume it has to be less than 3/8", but how much less?
> 
> 2. Is there a rule of thumb I can use for the other slots as well?
> I still have to clean up the rough casting on some of them.
> 
> 3. What is the best (most efficient) way to double the length of the bar and
> end up with the half-round profile I need?
> Forge it square first, etc.?
> No power hammer of any sort (yet), so that option's out.
> 
> 4. What's the best way to both flatten and straighten this length (or longer)
> once I have the profile complete?
> As I work it I try to keep it relatively flat, straight and untwisted as I go,
> but I need to end up with the flat section on the same plane when I'm done.
> 
> 5. While I'm asking questions, I might as well ask for the best method of
> making two 90 degree bends (sideways) in this bar once I have the length I
> need.
> This bar is going to be attached underneath a wooden board, with the flat
> section against the board.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Bob
> 
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