[TheForge] LG Repairs

Mon Apr 14 05:22:00 2003

Thanks, I'll need to look at it better before messing with the shaft
Larry

At 07:10 PM 4/13/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>         Larry,  The article I posted on pouring babbit in a Little Giant is
>on the Metal Web News website.
>         I wrote that about five years ago, and it has my old e-mail address
>on it.  :-(
>         I'd weld the anvil not braze it if it is going to take lots of
>impact directly.  Maybe other's would have sound advice as to why they would
>go brazing ......... that's just my first guess on what I'd do (without
>really seeing it).
>
>         On the subject of the front flywheel/front crank and removing it.
>It is held in place with a tapered key!  trying to press it the wrong way
>will break the casting.
>         If I was toying with the idea of a longer shaft, I'd consider
>getting the rear spider off also.  These castings have been on for close to
>100 years........and this shaft corrosion will be like removing welded
>parts.  Heat may be needed, a good press.......and that would be the spider.
>On the forward crank(if we are still on the topic of changing the shaft to a
>longer one......, I'd cut the shaft, drill it out, machine the new tapered
>keyway, and press it back on a new shaft and not an old corroded one.  You
>could consider cutting the shaft and drilling out the spider or drilling
>then air arcing the whole out to split the shaft to relieve it and pull it
>out.
>         When purchasing shafting, I'd go with turn ground and polished 2"
>shafting which is the size of the 50 Lb LG main shafts.  TG&P is usually
>1040 or 1045 which machines nice, presses well, will release a babbit pour
>well, and stays straighter than 1018 or 1020 shafting.
>         That's how I'd consider doing it if you changing the shaft to a
>longer one.  However, IF you break the spider, you'd best check with Sid if
>he makes those, and how much they are........as breaking 100 year old parts
>that are not available any more.......end up costing you more to make one of
>those parts than the whole hammer is worth.  Always a consideration to know
>where you stand before you dive in.
>         That's my two cents.
>
>Ralph
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Larry Brown" <[email protected]>
>To: <[email protected]>
>Sent: Sunday, April 13, 2003 6:59 AM
>Subject: [TheForge] LG Repairs
>
>
> > Hi All
> >   A while ago someone posted a link to a site about re pouring the babbit
> > for a LG, if anyone knows could they send me the link?
> >
> > Ralph S. you posted a description to the list on this repair a while ago
> > would you have a copy?
> >
> > Has anyone had any experience repairing the frame around the lower die
>block?
> >
> > I am looking at a #50 LG with a break next to the die, one side piece is
> > snapped off. It has suffered a mechanical repair with a strap and bolts, I
> > would like to know has anyone welded or brazed this kind of repair?
> >
> > The hammer is set up for a overhead line shaft, I was thinking of putting
>a
> > longer shaft on it and moving the clutch and drive pulley off to the back
> > side so I can use an electric motor mounted near the bottom, Anyone with
>an
> > idea or experience about this?
> > How is the front crank removed? Threaded or Keyed?  Easily?
> > Type of steel for the shaft?
> > Thanks
> > Larry Brown
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/theforge
> > theforge mail list group photo site is
> > http://www.photoaccess.com
> > Login:  [email protected]
> > password:  anvil
> > ___________
> >
> >
> >
>
>_______________________________________________
>http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/theforge
>theforge mail list group photo site is
>http://www.photoaccess.com
>Login:  [email protected]
>password:  anvil
>___________