[TheForge] LG Repairs

Ralph Sproul [email protected]
Sun Apr 13 19:06:01 2003


        Larry,  The article I posted on pouring babbit in a Little Giant is
on the Metal Web News website.
        I wrote that about five years ago, and it has my old e-mail address
on it.  :-(
        I'd weld the anvil not braze it if it is going to take lots of
impact directly.  Maybe other's would have sound advice as to why they would
go brazing ......... that's just my first guess on what I'd do (without
really seeing it).

        On the subject of the front flywheel/front crank and removing it.
It is held in place with a tapered key!  trying to press it the wrong way
will break the casting.
        If I was toying with the idea of a longer shaft, I'd consider
getting the rear spider off also.  These castings have been on for close to
100 years........and this shaft corrosion will be like removing welded
parts.  Heat may be needed, a good press.......and that would be the spider.
On the forward crank(if we are still on the topic of changing the shaft to a
longer one......, I'd cut the shaft, drill it out, machine the new tapered
keyway, and press it back on a new shaft and not an old corroded one.  You
could consider cutting the shaft and drilling out the spider or drilling
then air arcing the whole out to split the shaft to relieve it and pull it
out.
        When purchasing shafting, I'd go with turn ground and polished 2"
shafting which is the size of the 50 Lb LG main shafts.  TG&P is usually
1040 or 1045 which machines nice, presses well, will release a babbit pour
well, and stays straighter than 1018 or 1020 shafting.
        That's how I'd consider doing it if you changing the shaft to a
longer one.  However, IF you break the spider, you'd best check with Sid if
he makes those, and how much they are........as breaking 100 year old parts
that are not available any more.......end up costing you more to make one of
those parts than the whole hammer is worth.  Always a consideration to know
where you stand before you dive in.
        That's my two cents.

Ralph

----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Brown" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, April 13, 2003 6:59 AM
Subject: [TheForge] LG Repairs


> Hi All
>   A while ago someone posted a link to a site about re pouring the babbit
> for a LG, if anyone knows could they send me the link?
>
> Ralph S. you posted a description to the list on this repair a while ago
> would you have a copy?
>
> Has anyone had any experience repairing the frame around the lower die
block?
>
> I am looking at a #50 LG with a break next to the die, one side piece is
> snapped off. It has suffered a mechanical repair with a strap and bolts, I
> would like to know has anyone welded or brazed this kind of repair?
>
> The hammer is set up for a overhead line shaft, I was thinking of putting
a
> longer shaft on it and moving the clutch and drive pulley off to the back
> side so I can use an electric motor mounted near the bottom, Anyone with
an
> idea or experience about this?
> How is the front crank removed? Threaded or Keyed?  Easily?
> Type of steel for the shaft?
> Thanks
> Larry Brown
>
> _______________________________________________
> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/theforge
> theforge mail list group photo site is
> http://www.photoaccess.com
> Login:  [email protected]
> password:  anvil
> ___________
>
>
>