[TheForge] welding 1 1/2" square

Sat Jan 26 01:55:00 2002

At 06:23 PM 1/25/02, you wrote:


Roy, now is the time to go back over the top of the weld with 6013 and 
smooth it out...Pete

>I used 6011 in 1/8.  Had trouble getting it started but it finally ran for
>me.  It is well stuck but it aint purdy.  Its been about 20 years since I
>used a stick and never was much good.  The welds will be hidden by fireplace
>ashes.  However,  I need to hide them from my wife also because I always
>point out shoddy technique and workmanship on ironwork in her decorating
>magazines etc.  If she sees my "lovely beads", my aesthetic highground will
>be lost for a long time.
>RW, the humble
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Ralph Sproul <[email protected]>
>To: <[email protected]>
>Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 2:48 PM
>Subject: Re: [TheForge] welding 1 1/2" square
>
>
> > RW,  For penetration get some 6011 when using AC.  The 6013 and 7014 rods
> > are for deposition and smooth flow.  If you want some dig, strength, fast
> > freeze, with a little rust or dirt - the 6011 is the best.   If you want
>to
> > do the least clean up and aren't worried about structural integrity use
>the
> > 6013.    I'd also get 1/8 rod for stringer beads if you are going to buy
> > just one size.
> >
> > Ralph
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "RW" <[email protected]>
> > To: <[email protected]>
> > Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 11:43 AM
> > Subject: Re: [TheForge] welding 1 1/2" square
> >
> >
> > > Thanks to all.  I need to buy some new dry rod.  Would you recommend
>6013
> > > for this application?
> > > RW
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Miller, Ray (GEAE) <[email protected]>
> > > To: <[email protected]>
> > > Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 9:10 AM
> > > Subject: RE: [TheForge] welding 1 1/2" square
> > >
> > >
> > > > Absolutely!! What you need to do is grind in a "weld Prep". Chamfer
>the
> > > ends
> > > > of each side of the butt joint. When you go to make the weld, not
> > actually
> > > > butt the ends together. Leave a gap, less than an 1/8" and then put in
>a
> > > > root pass. The gap will improve your chances of good solid root pass
> > > fusion.
> > > > Then put in your cover passes until you have enough material to grind
> > back
> > > > the surface for finishing. Or if esthetics is secondary, put in a nice
> > > final
> > > > cover pass and your good to go.
> > > >
> > > > Ray Miller
> > > > Cincinnati, Ohio 4
> > > >
> > > > http://www.casealum.org/alumnuswinter2001/page6.htm
> > > >
> > > > http://www.uc.edu/profiles/rmiller.htm
> > > >
> > > > _______________________________________________
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> > > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: RW [mailto:[email protected]]
> > > > Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 8:32 AM
> > > > To: [email protected]
> > > > Subject: [TheForge] welding 1 1/2" square
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Is it possible to butt weld 1 1/2" solid mild steel with a 230 amp
>max.,
> > > AC
> > > > 220v welder?
> > > > It does not need to be a "structural weld", just to hold a fireplace
> > grate
> > > > frame together.
> > > > I tried it with a #7 oxy/acet tip which is for 1 1/4" max and it is
>not
> > > much
> > > > better than if I had used chewing gum.
> > > > RW
> > > >
> > > >
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