[TheForge] Re: hardening and tenpering of H-13

Fri Jan 18 08:27:39 2002

Do your struck ends mushroom like crazy?  Mine sure have.

At 08:51 PM 1/16/02 -0800, you wrote:
>If its 12" long you should never get the working end hot enough to harden. 
>If you do get it that hot the best way to anneal it is to heat it back up 
>and let the working end slowly cool in vermiculite.  Typically I make my 
>tools 3-4" long heat up and forge just the working end and let it air 
>cool, then use as is. Never had a chip or crack.  I DO NOT use my good 
>forging hammer as a striker, but use a hand sledge or ball pein.
>
>mike
>
>At 06:05 PM 1/16/02 -0800, you wrote:
>>John,
>>
>>Can you give more details regarding your tempering process on H-13,  say
>>you have a tool you have built that is 12' long,  do you evenly forge heat
>>it to a yellow heat,  allow to air cool and then slowly reheat the working
>>end, say the last 3 inches or so in the forge or with a torch to a faint
>>red in the shadows and then allow to air cool once again.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Roger Olsen
>>__________________
>>
>>John Newman wrote:
>>
>> > I use H13 on cold steel regularly and find it holds up well.  I used a
>> > H13 punch in my flypress to punch over 200 1/4" holes cold and it still
>> > looks fine. You have to temper it to a faint red in the shadows after
>> > air hardening it at a yellow heat.  If you skip the temper the edge
>> > dulls.  I have found H13 to be fairly cheap as well (12' of 3/8" and
>> > 1/2" round for $30 Cdn.)
>> >
>> > John Newman
>> >
>> > Frederick Faller wrote:
>> >
>> > > These pins are typically an H-13 steel that must
>> > > withstand the high working temperatures of the molding
>> > > process.
>> > >
>> > >  (H-13 is self
>> > > hardening steel) If you work the steel cold, these
>> > > will dull up as they are not a particullarly hard
>> > > steel, so don't use them for cold cutting, but with
>> > > hot work, you never have to worry about losing
>> > > hardeness with tempering because they self harden.
>> > >
>> > >
>> >
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>         Michael Linn
>       Artist Blacksmith
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