[TheForge] Re: hardening and tenpering of H-13
Frederick Faller
[email protected]
Thu Jan 17 22:50:55 2002
Good point about the hammer, Mike.
I have a special hammer I found somewhere and tossed
in the forge and softened it up good. Rehandled and
use it for striking tool. It keeps my chisels from
getting peened and because it is soft, doesn't tend to
slip of the back of the tool or chip it. Gives me a
nice solid blow, too. Much better than using a
hardened hammer.
F.W.Faller
--- Mike Linn <[email protected]> wrote:
> If its 12" long you should never get the working end
> hot enough to harden.
> If you do get it that hot the best way to anneal it
> is to heat it back up
> and let the working end slowly cool in vermiculite.
> Typically I make my
> tools 3-4" long heat up and forge just the working
> end and let it air cool,
> then use as is. Never had a chip or crack. I DO NOT
> use my good forging
> hammer as a striker, but use a hand sledge or ball
> pein.
>
> mike
>
> At 06:05 PM 1/16/02 -0800, you wrote:
> >John,
> >
> >Can you give more details regarding your tempering
> process on H-13, say
> >you have a tool you have built that is 12' long,
> do you evenly forge heat
> >it to a yellow heat, allow to air cool and then
> slowly reheat the working
> >end, say the last 3 inches or so in the forge or
> with a torch to a faint
> >red in the shadows and then allow to air cool once
> again.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Roger Olsen
> >__________________
> >
> >John Newman wrote:
> >
> > > I use H13 on cold steel regularly and find it
> holds up well. I used a
> > > H13 punch in my flypress to punch over 200 1/4"
> holes cold and it still
> > > looks fine. You have to temper it to a faint red
> in the shadows after
> > > air hardening it at a yellow heat. If you skip
> the temper the edge
> > > dulls. I have found H13 to be fairly cheap as
> well (12' of 3/8" and
> > > 1/2" round for $30 Cdn.)
> > >
> > > John Newman
> > >
> > > Frederick Faller wrote:
> > >
> > > > These pins are typically an H-13 steel that
> must
> > > > withstand the high working temperatures of the
> molding
> > > > process.
> > > >
> > > > (H-13 is self
> > > > hardening steel) If you work the steel cold,
> these
> > > > will dull up as they are not a particullarly
> hard
> > > > steel, so don't use them for cold cutting, but
> with
> > > > hot work, you never have to worry about losing
> > > > hardeness with tempering because they self
> harden.
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
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> Michael Linn
> Artist Blacksmith
> McCalla, Alabama
> AFC Webmaster
> http://afc.abana-chapter.com
>
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