[TheForge] Re: hardening and tenpering of H-13

Thu Jan 17 10:54:00 2002

just for clarity,  when I say the working end I am refering to the end of the
tool that dohat is hardened and tempered while leaving the non working end in
a state that does not abuse the hammer.
___________

Mike Linn wrote:

> If its 12" long you should never get the working end hot enough to harden.
> If you do get it that hot the best way to anneal it is to heat it back up
> and let the working end slowly cool in vermiculite.  Typically I make my
> tools 3-4" long heat up and forge just the working end and let it air cool,
> then use as is. Never had a chip or crack.  I DO NOT use my good forging
> hammer as a striker, but use a hand sledge or ball pein.
>
> mike
>
> At 06:05 PM 1/16/02 -0800, you wrote:
> >John,
> >
> >Can you give more details regarding your tempering process on H-13,  say
> >you have a tool you have built that is 12' long,  do you evenly forge heat
> >it to a yellow heat,  allow to air cool and then slowly reheat the working
> >end, say the last 3 inches or so in the forge or with a torch to a faint
> >red in the shadows and then allow to air cool once again.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Roger Olsen
> >__________________
> >
> >John Newman wrote:
> >
> > > I use H13 on cold steel regularly and find it holds up well.  I used a
> > > H13 punch in my flypress to punch over 200 1/4" holes cold and it still
> > > looks fine. You have to temper it to a faint red in the shadows after
> > > air hardening it at a yellow heat.  If you skip the temper the edge
> > > dulls.  I have found H13 to be fairly cheap as well (12' of 3/8" and
> > > 1/2" round for $30 Cdn.)
> > >
> > > John Newman
> > >
> > > Frederick Faller wrote:
> > >
> > > > These pins are typically an H-13 steel that must
> > > > withstand the high working temperatures of the molding
> > > > process.
> > > >
> > > >  (H-13 is self
> > > > hardening steel) If you work the steel cold, these
> > > > will dull up as they are not a particullarly hard
> > > > steel, so don't use them for cold cutting, but with
> > > > hot work, you never have to worry about losing
> > > > hardeness with tempering because they self harden.
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
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>          Michael Linn
>        Artist Blacksmith
>       McCalla, Alabama
>        AFC Webmaster
> http://afc.abana-chapter.com
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