[TheForge] Re: hardening and tenpering of H-13

Fri Jan 18 16:14:00 2002

Use a soft iron hammer. It dents when you hit the tool
so it does not slide during the strike. Gives a very
solid "dead blow" to the tool and does not mushroom or
chip the tool or the hammer.

Buy a cheap hammmer and anneal it and then rehandle. 

Frederick Faller
--- Ed Fasula <[email protected]> wrote:
> Do your struck ends mushroom like crazy?  Mine sure
> have.
> 
> At 08:51 PM 1/16/02 -0800, you wrote:
> >If its 12" long you should never get the working
> end hot enough to harden. 
> >If you do get it that hot the best way to anneal it
> is to heat it back up 
> >and let the working end slowly cool in vermiculite.
>  Typically I make my 
> >tools 3-4" long heat up and forge just the working
> end and let it air 
> >cool, then use as is. Never had a chip or crack.  I
> DO NOT use my good 
> >forging hammer as a striker, but use a hand sledge
> or ball pein.
> >
> >mike
> >
> >At 06:05 PM 1/16/02 -0800, you wrote:
> >>John,
> >>
> >>Can you give more details regarding your tempering
> process on H-13,  say
> >>you have a tool you have built that is 12' long, 
> do you evenly forge heat
> >>it to a yellow heat,  allow to air cool and then
> slowly reheat the working
> >>end, say the last 3 inches or so in the forge or
> with a torch to a faint
> >>red in the shadows and then allow to air cool once
> again.
> >>
> >>Thanks,
> >>
> >>Roger Olsen
> >>__________________
> >>
> >>John Newman wrote:
> >>
> >> > I use H13 on cold steel regularly and find it
> holds up well.  I used a
> >> > H13 punch in my flypress to punch over 200 1/4"
> holes cold and it still
> >> > looks fine. You have to temper it to a faint
> red in the shadows after
> >> > air hardening it at a yellow heat.  If you skip
> the temper the edge
> >> > dulls.  I have found H13 to be fairly cheap as
> well (12' of 3/8" and
> >> > 1/2" round for $30 Cdn.)
> >> >
> >> > John Newman
> >> >
> >> > Frederick Faller wrote:
> >> >
> >> > > These pins are typically an H-13 steel that
> must
> >> > > withstand the high working temperatures of
> the molding
> >> > > process.
> >> > >
> >> > >  (H-13 is self
> >> > > hardening steel) If you work the steel cold,
> these
> >> > > will dull up as they are not a particullarly
> hard
> >> > > steel, so don't use them for cold cutting,
> but with
> >> > > hot work, you never have to worry about
> losing
> >> > > hardeness with tempering because they self
> harden.
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> >
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