[TheForge] LG dies, was cast iron - Little Giant pulley
Rick & Kims Email
[email protected]
Sat Aug 10 23:45:01 2002
Cameron,
Before you go making dies, you should check out the new die system
that Sid is selling for LGs. They consist of die bases that fit into
the dovetailed top and bottom ways. Then the working dies bolt on to
the bases. So, it is quicker and less costly to switch from drawing
to flat dies for example. If you are going to make dies, you might
want to purchase the bases cut for the divetails from Sid and make the
business ends your self.
Rick Korinek
Emerald City Forge
Framingham, MA
----- Original Message -----
From: Cameron Stoker <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, August 09, 2002 1:16 PM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] cast iron - Little Giant pulley
I just got done upgrading the belt system used on my #50 LG hammer. I
had
machined a 2.5" flat belt pulley, and used the flat canvas belt for
quite
a while, but I could never get it to stay on when the belt got oily
(inevitable on a lg). I got so sick of it that I changed to a
synchronous drive belt system (timing belt and pulley). You can order
the
belt and pulley from mcmastercarr.com for about $60.
I went with a 1.5" wide belt with 1/2" pitch teeth and a pulley (H
series,
16T, 2.8" o.d.), with double flanges for the motor, the belt just
runs on
the flats of the teeth on the spider of the l.g.
It made a huge difference on my hammer - I think the flat belt had
always
slipped a little on the small motor pulley. In theory this setup gives
my
hammer about 400rpm. Is this too fast? Seems to work better than it
ever
did with a 2.5" pulley on the motor.
I think I have a photo of it around here - I'll see if I can post it
soon.
Now I just have to tune up the clutch blocks on the hammer - I heard a
good trick was to replace the hardwood blocks with chunks of UHMWPE
(ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene). They run smooth, and don't
require that just right amount of oiling the wood blocks do.
Also, I've been thinking of making some new hammer dies from a36 and
then
casehardening them with casenite. Has anyone tried this? I worry that
the
case won't do much to stop the die from deforming deeper down in the
body
of the die. I can't really afford $250-$350 per set of dies, and it is
a
real pain to machine tool steel on my 3-in-1 mill.
On Friday, August 9, 2002, at 10:05 AM, Gladish Family wrote:
> It's a cast iron 5 spoke pulley that somebody welded on, maybe in
hopes
> that
> they could use a 3450 motor.
> I have a 1725 with a 2" pulley, the original LG pulley is 10" which
is
> about right but the add-on makes it 13".
> 2 to 10 is 5x reduction, 345 beats per minute, a bit slow, but the
2"
> pulley
> is really about 1 3/4 with the belts it's got.
> 2 to 13 is 265 bpm which is about what it's running (counting beats
for
> fifteen seconds, x 4) and it won't strike well at "full speed"
because it'
> s
> not cycling at full speed. The outer pulley's got to go. Its not
very well
> balanced, either- you can see that the inner (original) is running
true
> and
> the outer is wobbling. The babbitt it rides on will have to be
re-poured,
> too, since the wobble made it old before its time.
> Thanks, Peter- I'd forgotten about cutting with the welder since I
got all
> these other tools ;-)
> Worth a try, since I'm going by Sid's soon.
> Andy G.
>
>> First, I doubt this pulley is making your unit run slow. It does
add
>> mass
>> and would affect startup but otherwise it would work as a flywheel.
>>
>> If this pulley is mounted between the bearings and you see a
wobble,
>> something more serious may be the problem. It may be your shaft
>> is not true
>> and you can see the affect on the pulley.
>>
>> Is this a flat belt pulley mounted on the top shaft outside the
bearings?
>>
>> What are you cutting, the shaft or are you cutting up the pulley?
>>
>> If this pulley is mounted on the outside, you can use a puller to
>> remove it.
>> If it's mounted between the bearings, you can remove the shaft
>> and then take
>> off the pulley and check your shaft.
>>
>> I think it will be easier to remove the whole pulley as a unit
rather
>> than
>> cutting it off. It would be better if you remove it all rather
than just
>> the spokes and rim.
>>
>> Walt
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Gladish Family <[email protected]>
>> To: Theforge@Mailman. Qth. Net <[email protected]>
>> Date: Friday, August 09, 2002 1:41 AM
>> Subject: [TheForge] cast iron
>>
>>
>>> Anybody got the secret to cutting cast iron?
>>> Somebody back in the ancient mists of time added a dorky outer
>> pulley to my
>>> Little Giant, causing it to wobble and run too slow. I tried to
>> cut it off
>>> of there with the torch and it looked like it was going to make
>> a mess, and
>>> the sawzall isn't working either...
>>> Andy G
>>>
>>> No matter what happens, somebody will find a
>>> way to take it too seriously.
>>> Dave Barry
>>>
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>>
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>
> _______________________________________________
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Cameron Stoker
"May you run like a vicu�a!"
[email protected]
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