[TheForge] LG dies, was cast iron - Little Giant pulley

Cameron Stoker [email protected]
Sun Aug 11 13:52:01 2002


Thanks for the tip about Sid's new system. I had been looking at the die=20=

setups on some of the homebuilt air hammers out there and feeling a bit=20=

green.

I like the idea of a base in the hammer dovetails and then having die=20
faces which bolt on with cap screws and dowel pins for precise locating.

I did a bit of research last night and checked out carpenterdirect.com=20=

(thaks to Adam Whiteson). They have very good prices on tool steels from=20=

what I could see. They list the price for a 10 to 12' length of 2.5" =
diam.
  4140 round at about $140. This is certainly within my price range. I=20=

imagine I could square up the round bar (to a 2" x 2.5" cross-section) =
in=20
my forging press, and then forge the dovetail taper with a carefully=20
machined set of double taper dies for the press. Perhaps a cleanup pass =
or=20
two on the mill, but the bulk of the metal would be in the right place=20=

from the forging.  If I can get this process figured out reasonably=20
smoothly, I could spend a weekend or two making up a bunch of die =
blanks,=20
then just forge/machine/grind the faces to suit whenever I need a new =
die=20
setup.
I know 4340 steel is a bit better match for hammer die tooling, but =
isn't=20
is quite similar to 4140? Anyone know of a reason not to use 4140 for a=20=

#50 little giant die set?

Thanks for the advice

On Saturday, August 10, 2002, at 09:37 PM, Rick & Kims Email wrote:

> Cameron,
> Before you go making dies, you  should check out the new die system
> that Sid is selling for LGs.  They consist of die bases that  fit into
> the dovetailed top and bottom ways.  Then the working dies bolt on to
> the bases.  So, it is quicker and less costly to switch from drawing
> to flat dies for example.  If you are going to make dies, you might
> want to purchase the bases cut for the divetails from Sid and make the
> business ends your self.
>
> Rick Korinek
> Emerald City Forge
> Framingham, MA
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Cameron Stoker <[email protected]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Friday, August 09, 2002 1:16 PM
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] cast iron - Little Giant pulley
>
>
> I just got done upgrading the belt system used on my #50 LG hammer. I
> had
> machined a 2.5" flat belt pulley, and used the flat canvas belt for
> quite
> a while, but I could never get it to stay on when the belt got oily
> (inevitable on  a lg).  I got so sick of it that I changed to a
> synchronous drive belt system (timing belt and pulley). You can order
> the
> belt and pulley from mcmastercarr.com for about $60.
> I went with a 1.5" wide belt with 1/2" pitch teeth and a pulley (H
> series,
>   16T, 2.8" o.d.), with double flanges for the motor, the belt just
> runs on
> the flats of the teeth on the spider of the l.g.
> It made a huge difference on my hammer - I think the flat belt had
> always
> slipped a little on the small motor pulley. In theory this setup gives
> my
> hammer about 400rpm. Is this too fast? Seems to work better than it
> ever
> did with a 2.5" pulley on the motor.
>
> I think I have a photo of it around here - I'll see if I can post it
> soon.
>
> Now I just have to tune up the clutch blocks on the hammer - I heard a
> good trick was to replace the hardwood blocks with chunks of UHMWPE
> (ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene). They run smooth, and don't
> require that just right amount of oiling the wood blocks do.
>
> Also, I've been thinking of making some new hammer dies from a36 and
> then
> casehardening them with casenite. Has anyone tried this? I worry that
> the
> case won't do much to stop the die from deforming deeper down in the
> body
> of the die. I can't really afford $250-$350 per set of dies, and it is
> a
> real pain to machine tool steel on my 3-in-1 mill.
>
>
> On Friday, August 9, 2002, at 10:05 AM, Gladish Family wrote:
>
>> It's a cast iron 5 spoke pulley that somebody welded on, maybe in
> hopes
>> that
>> they could use a 3450 motor.
>> I have a  1725 with a 2" pulley, the original LG pulley is 10" which
> is
>> about right but the add-on makes it 13".
>> 2 to 10 is 5x reduction, 345 beats per minute, a bit slow, but the
> 2"
>> pulley
>> is really about 1 3/4 with the belts it's got.
>> 2 to 13 is 265 bpm which is about what it's running (counting beats
> for
>> fifteen seconds, x 4) and it won't strike well at "full speed"
> because it'
>> s
>> not cycling at full speed. The outer pulley's got to go. Its not
> very well
>> balanced, either- you can see that the inner (original) is running
> true
>> and
>> the outer is wobbling. The babbitt it rides on will have to be
> re-poured,
>> too, since the wobble made it old before its time.
>> Thanks, Peter- I'd forgotten about cutting with the welder since I
> got all
>> these other tools ;-)
>> Worth a try, since I'm going by Sid's soon.
>> Andy G.
>>
>>> First, I doubt this pulley is making your unit run slow.  It does
> add
>>> mass
>>> and would affect startup but otherwise it would work as a flywheel.
>>>
>>> If this pulley is mounted between the bearings and you see a
> wobble,
>>> something more serious may be the problem.  It may be your shaft
>>> is not true
>>> and you can see the affect on the pulley.
>>>
>>> Is this a flat belt pulley mounted on the top shaft outside the
> bearings?
>>>
>>> What are you cutting, the shaft or are you cutting up the pulley?
>>>
>>> If this pulley is mounted on the outside, you can use a puller to
>>> remove it.
>>> If it's mounted between the bearings, you can remove the shaft
>>> and then take
>>> off the pulley and check your shaft.
>>>
>>> I think it will be easier to remove the whole pulley as a unit
> rather
>>> than
>>> cutting it off.  It would be better if you remove it all rather
> than just
>>> the spokes and rim.
>>>
>>> Walt
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Gladish Family <[email protected]>
>>> To: Theforge@Mailman. Qth. Net <[email protected]>
>>> Date: Friday, August 09, 2002 1:41 AM
>>> Subject: [TheForge] cast iron
>>>
>>>
>>>> Anybody got the secret to cutting cast iron?
>>>> Somebody back in the ancient mists of time added a dorky outer
>>> pulley to my
>>>> Little Giant, causing it to wobble and run too slow. I tried to
>>> cut it off
>>>> of there with the torch and it looked like it was going to make
>>> a mess, and
>>>> the sawzall isn't working either...
>>>> Andy G
>>>>
>>>> No matter what happens, somebody will find a
>>>> way to take it too seriously.
>>>>                        Dave Barry
>>>>
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>>
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>                                       Cameron Stoker
>     "May you run like a vicu=F1a!"
>                                       [email protected]
>
> _______________________________________________
> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/theforge
> theforge mail list group photo site is
> http://www.photoaccess.com
> Login:  [email protected]
> password:  anvil
> ___________
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/theforge
> theforge mail list group photo site is
> http://www.photoaccess.com
> Login:  [email protected]
> password:  anvil
> ___________
>
>
>
                                      Cameron Stoker
    				"May you run like a vicu=F1a!"
                                      [email protected]