[R-390] R-390 Digest, Vol 185, Issue 5

wb3fau55 at neo.rr.com wb3fau55 at neo.rr.com
Thu Sep 12 17:53:42 EDT 2019


Folks, i have a local friend with a R-390A Collins contract very good
orig cond. He wants$1000. My self, i have a Motorola contract S/N 30
excellent cond. Negotable price around 1000. Send email, we can talk.
Russ wb3fau. 

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 ------------------------------
 
 Message: 4
 Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2019 11:23:53 -0400
 From: dog <agfa at hughes.net>
 To: r-390 at mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [R-390] General valuation?
 Message-ID: <32d900dd-dae5-a090-a842-baadfeb758f2 at hughes.net>
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
 
 Generally worth what someone is prepared to pay. I've got a couple
too 
 I'd like to sell, but I'm not giving them away at the moment. It may 
 come to that.
 
 On 9/12/2019 09:40, Reuben Popp wrote:
 > Good morning all,
 >
 > Quick question for the group.
 >
 > What is the general consensus on the price for a R390A in very good
shape
 > (with meters), in a restored CY-979A cabinet? I have a lead on such
a
 > unit; I have been told it is in great shape in the cabinet and was
working
 > when last used. However, it has not been powered on for the past
few years.
 >
 > Thanks in advance
 > Reuben A. Popp
 > ______________________________________________________________
 > R-390 mailing list
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 ------------------------------
 
 Message: 5
 Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2019 11:51:00 -0700
 From: Dan Merz <mdmerz at frontier.com>
 To: Larry H <larry41gm at gmail.com>
 Cc: R-390 Forum <r-390 at mailman.qth.net>
 Subject: Re: [R-390] White lines on knobs and more
 Message-ID: <46C23669-4793-4C06-8144-B9BB8AE24487 at frontier.com>
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
 
 Hi, I think you are chasing the wrong animal trying to get oxide off
of aluminum. Maybe it would be better to say that you would like an
even oxide on the knob. Aluminum has a tremendous affinity for oxygen
and will immediately form an oxide skin in air. So use whatever method
to get a clean, smooth surface, e.g. bead blasting, NaOH etch,
mechanical sanding, scotch-Brite, etc., and don?t be stuck on the idea
that you are going to remove aluminum oxide, which will form right
away. I?m not familiar with all the possible ways aluminum surfaces
can be treated, some of which likely produce more complex coatings,
and I believe Bonderite must work pretty well when applied in the
manner described as a base for subsequent painting. I believe it
produces a chromate surface coating which aids paint adhesion. Dan
 
 Sent from my iPad Air2
 
 > On Sep 11, 2019, at 5:55 PM, Larry H <larry41gm at gmail.com> wrote:
 > 
 > Thank you, John, for the nice explanation. Your R-390 panels look
very
 > nice.
 > 
 > Question - would sanding the knobs remove the oxide well enough? Is
there
 > an easy way to tell if the oxide has been removed?
 > 
 > Regards, Larry
 > 
 >> On Wed, Sep 11, 2019 at 1:53 PM John Gedde <jgedde at optonline.net>
wrote:
 >> 
 >> The whole idea is to get the surface coating of aluminum oxide
off. For
 >> the knobs, I bead blasted them. For panels and what not, scotch
brite
 >> followed by a quick dip in diluted metal ?prep and etch? available
from
 >> Home Depot.
 >> 
 >> 
 >> 
 >> The coating I speak of is what Collins et al used for a surface
treatment
 >> on unpainted aluminim like chassis panels, the Utah plate, etc.
So,
 >> getting up to speed with Bonderite gives you not only the ability
to prime
 >> for painting but to restore coated parts in the radio as well. I
have done
 >> several unpainted panels and covers on my radios using this
method. I used
 >> scotch brite brushed in one direction carefully to clean off the
old
 >> conversion coating the OEM put on and also to duplicate the
brushed finish
 >> they had originally.
 >> 
 >> 
 >> 
 >> I?ve attached a pic of my R390 inside. All the covers shown have
been
 >> restored using this method?
 >> 
 >> 
 >> 
 >> John
 >> 
 >> 
 >> 
 >> *From:* Larry H <larry41gm at gmail.com>
 >> *Sent:* Saturday, September 7, 2019 5:47 PM
 >> *To:* John Gedde <jgedde at optonline.net>
 >> *Cc:* R-390 Forum <r-390 at mailman.qth.net>
 >> *Subject:* Re: [R-390] White lines on knobs and more
 >> 
 >> 
 >> 
 >> Thanks John, Good to know about your new method. I was wondering,
how do
 >> you clean and deoxidize the aluminum in prep for the dip?
 >> 
 >> 
 >> 
 >> Regards, Larry
 >> 
 >> 
 >> 
 >> On Sat, Sep 7, 2019 at 9:52 AM John Gedde <jgedde at optonline.net>
wrote:
 >> 
 >> Hi Larry,
 >> 
 >> It looks great! I have moved away from using a spray primer on
aluminum
 >> prior to paint in favor of a chromate conversion coating. Loctite
 >> Bonderite is what I use. It's what we use at work for spaceborne
 >> mechanisms that get painted or aluminum surfaces that remain bare
 >> (non-anodized). I've never had any issues with adhesion using this
stuff.
 >> Basically you clean and deoxidize the aluminum, dip it in
Bonderite for a
 >> minute or so, rinse and let dry. The aluminum turns a golden color
and
 >> paint readily adheres to it if you spray within 24 hours. The
coating is
 >> also known by other names: ChemFilm, Alodyne, Iridite, etc.
 >> 
 >> John
 >> 
 >> 
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